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Blick auf die Stadt Chiang Mai, über der dichter Smog hängt. Foto: Wichai Taprieu/AP
Feinstaubwerte Extrem-Smog: «Toxischer Trip nach Thailand» Chiang Mai, der Name weckt bei Thailand-Fans Visionen von herrlichen Tempeln und einmaligen Landschaften. Derzeit aber ist die Vision getrübt: Seit Wochen liegt toxischer Smog über der Region. Das Phänomen ist nicht neu - aber in diesem Jahr macht es Schlagzeilen. Die Luft in Thailand stinkt zum Himmel - und das sprichwörtlich: Teile des Königreichs ächzen seit Wochen unter einer finsteren Glocke aus giftigem Smog. Der Auslöser des Phänomens ist bekannt: Brandrodungen. Aber in diesem Jahr ist die Situation so schlimm, dass sie auch international für Schlagzeilen sorgt.
Betroffen ist besonders der Norden mit der Touristenhochburg Chiang Mai, dem Backpackerparadies Pai und Chiang Rai nahe des Goldenen Dreiecks. Aber auch die pulsierende Hauptstadt Bangkok erlebt Feinstaubwerte, die mit jedem Atemzug der Gesundheit schaden.
Keine gute Nachricht für die wichtige Tourismusbranche, die nach der Corona-Pandemie gerade erst wieder zu einem Höhenflug angesetzt hatte. «"Machen Sie einen Trip ins toxische Thailand." Hmmm, trotz der smarten Alliteration wird sich der Satz wohl nicht als Tourismus-Slogan durchsetzen», witzelte die Zeitung «South China Morning Post» kürzlich in einem Kommentar. Das «Land des Lächelns» habe sich in ein «Land der Grimassen» verwandelt.
Chiang Mai in Sachen Luftverschmutzung auf Platz 1 Die Tempelstadt Chiang Mai, genannt «Rose des Nordens» und eines der schönsten Aushängeschilder des Landes, rangiert auf der Liste der Städte mit der höchsten Luftverschmutzung der Welt seit Tagen immer wieder auf Platz 1. Die Feinstaubwerte sind manchmal rot untermalt («ungesund»), das sind die besseren Stunden. Meist sind die Werte lila oder sogar braun markiert. Will heißen: «äußerst ungesund» oder gar «gefährlich». Der Provinzgouverneur forderte die Menschen bereits auf, im Homeoffice zu arbeiten «und Schutzmasken zu tragen, falls Sie das Haus doch verlassen müssen».
Touristen besuchen einen der unzähligen Tempel. So schön ist die berühmte Stadt im Norden ohne Smog. Seit Wochen allerdings liegt toxischer Smog über der Region. Carola Frentzen/dpa
Previous Next Ein Deutscher, der in Bangkok lebt, schickte kürzlich Urlaubsgrüße aus Chiang Mai: «Ich kann morgens vor lauter Smog nicht einmal den Berg direkt vor meinem Hotelfenster sehen.» Das Video einer Autofahrt durch die Provinz Chiang Rai, das ein Reporter des Senders ThaiPBS in sozialen Medien postete, wirkt wie eine Reise auf dem Highway to Hell. Passend schrieb er: «Es ist eine Hölle aus Staub und Rauch.» Zur Beruhigung aller, die eine Thailand-Reise planen: Auf den Inseln weiter südlich wie Ko Samui oder Ko Chang ist die Luft recht gut.
Rodung der Felder und Waldbrände Seit vielen Jahren fliehen auch alle Bürger, die es sich leisten können, immer zu Jahresbeginn aus dem Norden in luftfreundlichere Regionen weiter südlich. Denn am Ende der Trockenzeit zwischen Januar und April brennen die Bauern rund um Chiang Mai und Co. ihre Zuckerrohr- und Reisfelder ab - aber nicht nur in Thailand, sondern auch in den Nachbarländern Myanmar, Laos und Kambodscha. Bis Bangkok zieht der Dunst manchmal. Im März klagten viele tagelang über einen kratzenden Hals und tränende Augen.
Hinzu kamen in diesem Jahr Waldbrände. Da es nicht regnet und zumeist windstill ist, klebt die dadurch hervorgerufene Schicht aus Feinstaub förmlich in der Luft, unbeweglich und bedrohlich. «Ich glaube, wir haben jetzt diese vier Jahreszeiten: Sommer, Winter, Regenzeit und Smog», sagte der Taxifahrer Pat aus Chiang Mai lokalen Medien.
Jedoch waren die Werte rund um die wichtigen Songkran-Feiertage im April, die an diesem Donnerstag begonnen haben, meistens wieder im Normalbereich. Dass dies in diesem Jahr nicht der Fall ist, ist für Hoteliers und Reiseveranstalter extrem bitter. Bereits Anfang März habe er einen Buchungsrückgang von 50 Prozent verzeichnet, zitierte die Nachrichtenseite «The Thaiger» den Inhaber des Tourenanbieters Chiang Mai Tee Tours. «Ich denke, Touristen werden sich der Umweltverschmutzung immer bewusster.»
Yuthasak Supasorn, Gouverneur des thailändischen Fremdenverkehrsamtes TAT, sagte zuletzt, der Smog werde dem Tourismus in Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai und anderen beliebten Orten der Region wahrscheinlich einen finanziellen Schaden von zwei Milliarden Thai Baht (rund 50 Millionen Euro) zufügen. Aber nicht nur die Tourismusindustrie leidet, sondern vor allem die Gesundheit.
Risiko für Krankheiten steigt Laut Rangsarit Kanchanawanit von der medizinischen Fakultät der Universität Chiang Mai erhöht die Schadstoffbelastung das Risiko für Lungenkrebs, Herzkrankheiten und Schlaganfälle und verkürzt die Lebenserwartung um vier bis fünf Jahre. 1700 Bürger aus Chiang Mai haben deshalb bereits eine Sammelklage eingereicht. Sie werfen Ministerpräsident Prayut Chan-o-cha und zwei Behörden vor, nicht genug gegen die Brandrodungen zu unternehmen und die geltenden Richtlinien und Regeln nicht konsequent durchzusetzen.
«Wir wollen, dass die Regierung ihre Politik ändert, einen starken politischen Willen zeigt und nicht nur Rücksicht auf kapitalistische Gruppen nimmt», erklärte Kanchanawanit. «Das könnte Millionen Menschen vor Krankheiten bewahren.»
Einer, der sich trotzdem nach Chiang Mai aufmachen wollte, ist der renommierte Thailand-Blogger Richard Barrow. Vor Abfahrt postete er auf Twitter ein Foto seines Gepäcks: ein tragbarer Luftreiniger und unzählige Masken. Zuvor hatte er angekündigt: «Ich fahre für die Songkran-Feiertage mit dem Zug nach Chiang Mai. Aber wenn die Luftqualität immer noch "gefährlich" ist, nehme ich wohl einfach den ersten Zug wieder zurück.» Es sei erstaunlich, dass die Behörden angesichts der Lage noch nicht den Notstand ausgerufen hätten.
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