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Nach zwei Stunden erreicht der Zug sein Ziel: Amatitán, wo die Tequila-Destillerie Herradura besucht werden kann.
Foto: Franz Smets Urlaub in Mexiko Mit dem Zug ins Land der Agaven
Zweimal pro Woche fährt ein Zug von der mexikanischen Stadt Guadalajara nach Tequila. Auf der Fahrt dreht sich alles um das gleichnamige Getränk. Die Stimmung an Bord ist dementsprechend ausgelassen.
Nach 15 Minuten wird der erste Tequila serviert. Bis dahin hat Juan Carlos den 80 Passagieren im Waggon 4 des Tequila-Express die Sorten des hochprozentigen »Weines der Agave« erklärt, die Musiker haben mit Violinen und Trompeten die Schönheiten der Landschaft besungen.
Um 10.00 Uhr hat sich der von zwei Lokomotiven gezogene Zug in Guadalajara in Bewegung gesetzt. Juan Carlos erklärt den Gästen, dass sie den Tequila nicht nur pur trinken müssen. Es gibt ihn auch verdünnt, als Longdrink Margarita, aber auch gemischt mit Cola, Tomatensaft und Pampelmusenbrause, der Einfachheit halber stets aus der Aluminiumdose. Dazu werden scharfe Erdnüsse und Kartoffelchips serviert.
Draußen zieht Zapopan vorüber, einer der großen Vororte von Guadalajara, der mit acht Millionen Einwohnern zweitgrößten Stadt Mexikos. Es sind mal Sportplätze, mal Müll- und wilde Schuttplätze, Parks, Industriebetriebe und riesige Ansammlungen von Häuschen aus dem sozialen Wohnungsbauprogramm des früheren Präsidenten Vicente Fox zu sehen. Tausende von schwarzen Wasserbehältern auf den Dächern glänzen in der Sonne.
»Hat jemand Geburtstag?«, ruft Juan Carlos ins Mikrofon, inzwischen trägt er einen großen Sombrero auf dem Kopf. Niemand traut sich zunächst. Doch dann hebt eine Frau die Hand. Und schon legen die Musiker los. Die Fahrt soll ja lustig werden.
Beinahe verpassen die Gäste, dass der Zug in die hügelige Agavenlandschaft bei Tequila einfährt, die 2006 von der Unesco zum Welterbe der Menschheit erklärt wurde. Sie umfasst den Vulkan Tequila, die Schluchten des Rio Grande und rund 35.000 Hektar Land mit Agavenanpflanzungen, Haciendas und alten kleinen Destillerien, in denen - wie könnte es anders sein - Tequila hergestellt wird.
Das Ziel ist nach zwei Stunden erreicht: Amatitán bei der Stadt Tequila. Hier hat die Destillerie Herradura ihren Hauptsitz. Die Hacienda ist ein riesiges Anwesen, von hohen Mauern umgeben. Hunderte Stahltanks, Destillieranlagen und Rohre sind im Inneren zu bestaunen. In den Öfen kochen die zentnerschweren Früchte der blauen Agave drei Tage lang. 30.000 Liter Tequila werden bei Herradura pro Tag produziert.
Der Besuch klingt aus mit einem mexikanischen Essen vor den stillgelegten Tequilaöfen im alten Teil des Anwesens. Natürlich gibt es auch hier Tequila. Wieder spielen die Musiker auf, es wird getanzt, und die Charros, die mexikanischen Cowboys, lassen ihre Lassos kreisen.
Bei der anschließenden Rückfahrt nach Guadalajara verzichten die meisten Passagiere auf einen letzten Tequila.
Service:
Der Zug fährt das ganze Jahr über samstags und sonntags um 10.00 Uhr in Guadalajara ab. Die Fahrt kostet rund 72 Euro, ermäßigt für Kinder zwischen sechs und elf Jahren 48 Euro. Darin inbegriffen sind die Zugfahrt, Essen und Getränke. Tickets und Informationen gibt es bei Canaco-Servytur, Guadalajara. Av. Vallarta 4095 esquina Niño Obrero, Telefon: 0052/33/38 80 90 99, außerdem auf der Website www.tequilaexpress.com.mx .
Mexikanische Spezialität
Der Tequila ist ein aus der Agave destillierter Schnaps. Es gibt ihn in vier Altersstufen: Plato (ein Jahr), Reposado (drei Jahre), Añejo (fünf Jahre) und Extrañejo (sieben Jahre). Die blaue Agave, die für den Tequila verwendet wird, stammt aus fünf mexikanischen Bundesstaaten: Hauptsächlich aus Jalisco und aus einigen begrenzten Gebieten von Michoacán, Nayarit, Guanajuato und Tamaulipas. In anderen Staaten wird ebenfalls ein Agavengetränk hergestellt: der Mescal, der derzeit in Mexiko an Beliebtheit gewinnt. Da der Tequila seit gut zwei Jahrzehnten weltweit populär geworden ist, wächst die Tequilaindustrie beständig. Es entstehen immer mehr moderne Produktionsanlagen, die riesige Mengen des hochprozentigen Getränkes herstellen. Angesichts dieser Entwicklung wird befürchtet, dass die Menge der Pflanzen bald für die Tequila-Produktion nicht mehr ausreicht. Nach Angaben des Rates zur Regulierung des Tequila werden in diesem Jahr nur 32 Millionen Pflanzen geerntet, benötigt würden aber 40 Millionen.
(08.06.2012, dpa)
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