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Sarah Excell (v.l.n.r.), ihr Mann Sam und ihre gemeinsame Tochter Eva: Die Familie ist Teil der immer größer werdenden «Van Life»-Bewegung. Foto: Sarah Excell/privat/dpa
Einfach leben
«Van Life» in Australien: Freiheit auf engstem Raum
Immer mehr Menschen in Australien entscheiden sich für ein Nomadendasein. Sie verkaufen alles und ziehen in ausgebauten Vans und Wohnwagen durch die Weiten von Down Under. Ist es nur das einfache Leben, was die Community so reizt?
Menekse Humphrey (48) und ihr Mann James (55) nennen ihren Van liebevoll «Putu». Seit zwei Jahren ist er ihr Fahrzeug - und ihr Zuhause. Das deutsch-amerikanische Paar hat davor in Nürnberg gelebt, nun ist Australien die neue Heimat - zumindest bis es sie wieder in eine andere Weltgegend verschlägt.
Die beiden sind Teil der immer größer werdenden «Van Life»-Bewegung: Menschen, die feste Wohnsitze und Bürojobs gegen ein ungebundenes Leben «on the road» eintauschen. «Aufzustehen, seinen Kaffee im Wohnmobil zu trinken und dann zu überlegen: «Was mache ich heute?» - das ist Freiheit», sagt James Humphrey.
Aufwachen direkt am Strand
Die Sehnsucht nach einem entschleunigten, simplen Leben ist es, was die «Van Lifer» verbindet. In sozialen Netzwerken teilt die Community Erfahrungen und Reisetipps oder Videos vom Camper-Ausbau und diskutiert die besten Stellplätze und Reise-Gadgets. «Man trifft sich zum Lagerfeuer oder trinkt abends ein Bier», sagt Menekse Humphrey
. «Wer dieselbe Route fährt, findet sich früher oder später wieder.»
Aufwachen direkt am Strand des Pazifiks, den Sonnenuntergang am Ayers Rock vom Fahrzeug aus erleben oder unter dem Sternenhimmel mitten im Outback parken: Viele «Van-Lifer» genießen es, immer inmitten von Australiens beeindruckender Natur zu sein. Trotzdem kann das nomadenhafte Leben sehr verschieden aussehen.
Um den Traum zu finanzieren, arbeiten und sparen einige mehrere Jahre lang. Andere unterbrechen ihre Trips und nehmen Aushilfsjobs an oder arbeiten als Freelancer ortsungebunden. Auch die Fahrzeuge unterscheiden sich im Komfort und reichen von kleineren Vans, in die kaum mehr als eine Doppelmatratze passt, bis hin zu modernen Wohnwagen mit Küchenzeile, Waschmaschine und Bad.
Komplett unabhängig sein
Nigel Tindall (l) und Sue McLaurin sind Teil der immer größer werdenden «Van Life»-Bewegung: Menschen, die feste Wohnsitze und Bürojobs gegen ein ungebundenes Leben «on the road» eintauschen. Sue McLaurin/privat/dpa
Menekse (l) und James Humphrey neben ihrem Van und vor dem Uluru (Ayers Rock) im Outback Australiens: Seit zwei Jahren ist er ihr Fahrzeug - und ihr Zuhause. Menekse Humphrey/@putteringaroundtheworld/dpa
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«Wir sind mit unserem Van komplett unabhängig», sagt Sue McLaurin (55) im Gespräch mit der Deutschen Presse-Agentur. Mit ihrem Mann Nigel (58) reist sie seit Beginn der Corona-Pandemie durch Australien. Ihr rollendes Zuhause hat eine Küche, Toilette und Dusche sowie Solarplatten auf dem Dach. «Wir erzeugen unseren Strom selbst und können überall übernachten. Wir brauchen keine Zelte, wir schalten nur den Motor aus und sind da», sagt Sue.
Die Maskenbildnerin aus Brisbane hatte eigentlich davon geträumt, mehrere Jahre im Ausland zu reisen, nachdem ihr jüngster Sohn seinen Schulabschluss gemacht hatte. Aber bevor der Traum Wirklichkeit werden konnte, kam Corona. Im März 2020 hat Australien seine Grenzen rigoros geschlossen. Reisen ins Ausland sind erst seit Anfang November wieder erlaubt - und auch nur für einige Bundesstaaten.
«Graue Nomaden»
Für Sue und Nigel war die Pandemie am Ende aber genau der richtige Augenblick, um das Leben im Van zu starten - wenn auch nicht im Ausland. Beide können derzeit wegen der Krise in ihren Berufen nicht weiter arbeiten. «Ich habe zu meinem Mann gesagt, lass uns den Van jetzt kaufen und ausbauen», so Sue. Im Mai 2020 machten sie den Plan wahr. Nigel, Helikopter-Pilot, baute das Fahrzeug um, dann reiste das Paar vier Monate durch das tropische Queensland.
Sogenannte «graue Nomaden» - Menschen im Rentenalter, die ohne festen Wohnsitz durch Australien reisen - gibt es in Down Under schon länger. Doch die Corona-Pandemie hat den «Van Life»-Lebensstil aus verschiedenen Gründen auch bei jüngeren Generationen beliebt gemacht. So sind die Immobilienpreise und Mieten besonders in Städten gestiegen - für einige ist das Leben im Van derzeit geradezu eine finanzielle Notwendigkeit.
Außerdem mussten Australier, die während der Pandemie verreisen wollten, wegen der geschlossenen Grenzen notgedrungen das eigene Land erkunden. Auch flexiblere Arbeitsbedingungen, die in der Pandemie für viele zur Norm geworden sind, machen den Lebensstil immer attraktiver. Wer für den Job nur einen Computer und Internet benötigt, kann unkompliziert von seinem Wagen aus arbeiten.
Die australische Statistik-Behörde hat keine genauen Angaben dazu, wie viele Menschen in Australien in Vans leben. Im Jahr 2021 sind aber bisher mehr als 772.000 Wohnmobile und Wohnwagen im ganzen Land registriert, berichtete der australische Sender ABC
zuletzt.
Die Corona-Krise hat einigen australischen Nomaden derweil das Reisen auch erschwert. «Wir warten die ganze Zeit darauf, endlich nach South oder Western Australia einzureisen», sagt Menekse Humphrey. Die beiden Bundesstaaten haben ihre Grenzen aber noch geschlossen. «Als New South Wales im Lockdown war, mussten wir uns sogar eine Wohnung mieten - im Van leben war dort zu der Zeit nicht erlaubt.» Sue McLaurin und ihr Mann berichten zudem von ausgebuchten Campingplätzen: «Wegen der größeren Distanz, die zwischen den Autos eingehalten werden musste, gab es weniger Stellplätze.»
Als Familie unvergessliche Momente erleben
Die junge Familie Excell
aus South Australia hat die Pandemie im Norden Queenslands hingegen zeitweise fast vergessen: «Wir lesen kaum Nachrichten, es gibt kaum Fälle - wir bekommen nichts mit von der Krise», sagt Sarah Excell (38). Gemeinsam mit ihrem gleichaltrigen Mann Sam und ihrer dreijährigen Tochter Eva reist sie seit Mai im Wohnwagen durch Australien. Die Entscheidung für den großen Sprung in die Freiheit hat die Familie nach einem Schicksalsschlag getroffen: Bei Sam wurde im Februar ALS diagnostiziert, eine schwere Erkrankung des motorischen Nervensystems, die zur vollständigen Lähmung und anschließend zum Tod führt.
«Wir haben unser Haus verkauft, den Wohnwagen gekauft und sind einfach losgefahren», erzählt Sarah. Einen Plan haben sie nicht, sie wollen so lange reisen, wie es Sam gesundheitlich möglich ist. Noch kann er mit Krücken gehen, auch Auto fahren ist möglich. Die Familie hofft, so noch einige Jahre durch Australien touren zu können. «Der einfache Lebensstil tut uns gut, wir sind einfache Menschen», sagt Sarah. «Wir wollen als Familie Momente erleben, an die wir uns immer erinnern können.»
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