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Griechenland
Griechenland KORFU Griechenlands individuelle Reiseperle Korfu ist irgendwie anders als andere griechische Inseln. Grüner, lieblicher und italienischer. In der »Inselmetropole« Kérkyra wähnt man sich in Bella Italia: venezianische Architektur, hübsche Fußgängerzone, gut sortierte Eisdielen, enge Gassen mit schönen Torbögen und großen Plätzen mit stilvollen Arkaden-Cafés, die bis weit in die Nacht gut besucht sind.
Doch der Charme der Insel setzt sich auch außerhalb der Hauptstadt fort. Griechische Traditionen treffen auf Korfu nicht nur auf italienische, sondern auch auf französische und britische Einflüsse. Bis zum Ende des 18. Jahrhunderts stand die Insel unter venezianischer Herrschaft, dann kamen die Engländer, danach die Franzosen. Neben Kaiserin Sissi verbrachten auch Königin Elisabeth, Kaiser Wilhelm II. und die griechische Königsfamilie gern ihren Urlaub auf Korfu.
Die natürliche Schönheit der Insel erstaunt, die zerklüfteten Küstenstreifen im Norden und Westen erscheinen trotz des traditionsreichen Tourismus immer noch recht jungfräulich, so gibt es auf Korfu mehr Naturschutzgebiete als auf den meisten Ägäisinseln. Wer motorisiert ist und auf Entdeckertour geht, findet neben geschichtsträchtigen Villen, Palästen, Gärten und dem nach Kaiser Wilhem II. benannten Aussichtspunkt Kaiser’s Throne einsame Buchten und idyllische Plätze. Zum Baden allein ist Griechenlands grünste Insel eigentlich viel zu schade: Im Schatten der vier Millionen Olivenbäume und duftenden Pinienwälder lässt es sich wunderbar wandern. Der 200 Kilometer lange Corfu Trail durchquert die Insel von Süd nach Nord - hier geht’s auf alten Pfaden über felsige Pässe zu Bergdörfern und Klöstern. Besonders schön ist der rund 15 Kilometer lange Abschnitt von Paleokastrítsa nach Ágios Geórgios (3,5 Std.). Aktivurlauber, Mountain-Biker (Euro 15/Tag) und Ornithologen wissen die Bergwelt zu schätzen. Auf den fantastischen Blick vom Gipfel des 906 Meter hohen Berges Pantokrátor übers Ionische Meer zum griechischen Festland und nach Albanien brauchen aber auch Mietwagen-Urlauber nicht zu verzichten. Ein Auto lohnt sich in jedem Fall, die Insel misst von Nord nach Süd immerhin 60 Kilometer und ist landschaftlich sehr abwechslungsreich.
Aber wie findet man den besten St(r)andort? Die Antwort ist am Ende auch eine Geschmackssache:
Kieselstrand oder Sandstrand ist die alles entscheidende Frage. Die Ostküste nördlich von Korfu-Stadt und der Nordosten der Insel besteht fast ausschließlich aus Kieselstränden. Hier leuchtet das Meer in allen erdenklichen Türkistönen und ist zudem besonders klar. Nissáki, Kerasía und Aflakí sind unsere Favoriten in dieser Kategorie. Und der urige Akoli Beach, der nach einem 15-minütigen Marsch durch ein Naturschutzgebiet erreicht ist.
Der Kalamaki Beach im zerklüfteten Inselnorden gehört dagegen zu den Sandstränden. Bei Individualisten sehr beliebt ist der drei Kilometer lange Sandstrand von Ágios Geórgios im Nordwesten mit einer guten Auswahl an Unterkünften, Bars und Restaurants. Ein gewachsener Ort, umgeben von einer malerischen felsigen Kulisse, findet sich mit Paleokastrítsa. Mit menschenleeren Buchten in der näheren Umgebung, die sich mit dem Leihboot entdecken lassen. Ein Stück weiter südlich liegt der kleine Rovinia Beach, ein echter Hingucker, der die 500 Meter Fußmarsch vom Parkplatz wert ist.
Viel Flair verbreitet auch der kleine Inselort Pélekas mit dem schönen Strand von Kontogialos und dem herrlichen Mirtiótissa Beach als Alternative. Vorteil: Von Pélakas ist es mit dem Auto nur eine Viertelstunde nach Korfu-Stadt. Vom äußersten Nordwesten (und vom tiefsten Süden) sind es 45 Minuten. Das macht man mal tagsüber, aber nicht auf ein Glas Wein am Abend.
Einen Strand haben wir noch in petto: Der imposante Dünenstrand Issos Beach an der Lagune im Südwesten ist so weitläufig, dass hier der Surfer dem FKK-Urlauber nicht auf die Pelle rückt und selbst Liebespärchen ein ungestörtes Plätzchen finden.
Der Inselsüden indes ist nicht jedermanns Sache. Fest in der Hand von britischen Touristen ist der Badeort Kávos. So manchem Korfuaner dürfte aufgefallen sein, dass der Lieferwagen mit dem Ouzo im Sommer die Inselstraße 25 in den Süden öfter nimmt als die 24 in den Norden.
Hotel-Tipps Nahe Korfú-Stadt: Das charmante Erwachsenen-Hotel »Mar Bella« , gelegen 17 km südlich von Korfu-Stadt, hat einen aufgeschütteten Sandstrand mit Beachbar (0030-26610-71183, www.marbella.gr, EZ/DZ ab Euro 86/96 HP). Es gibt eine Roof-Top-Bar und ein Spa. Das Hotel ist auch pauschal buchbar: 1 Wo ab Euro 660 HP inkl. Flug, LMX Touristik.
Pélekas: Vom Aparthotel »Bella Vista« sind es 200 m zum Kontogialos Beach. Die Zimmer und Studios sind hell und schön, haben einen Balkon mit super Meerblick, dazu kommt eine Cocktailbar und ein gutes Restaurant (0030-26610-94927, www.bellavistacorfu.com, EZ/DZ ab Euro 56 ÜF).
Kalámi: Das Hotel »San Antonio« im Nordosten Korfus liegt in Hanglage über einem flach abfallenden Kieselstrand mit mehreren Restaurants und Sonnenliegen. Schöner Blick, toller Pool. Pauschal gebucht 1 Woche ab Euro 552 ÜF inkl. Flug, ITS.
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