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Oía auf Santorín ist für seine einzigartige Architektur und die Sonnenuntergänge vor malerischer Kulisse bekannt
Oía auf Santorín ist für seine einzigartige Architektur und die Sonnenuntergänge vor malerischer Kulisse bekannt SANTORÍN Der Balkon der Ägäis Die weltberühmte Kykladeninsel Santorín hat zwei Seiten. Eine äußerst fotogene mit weiß getünchten Häusern, blauen Kuppeln und Blick in die geflutete Caldera - die bei Besuchern aus aller Welt und Kreuzfahrttouristen besonders gefragt ist. Und eine unbekannte, die für den meisten verborgen bleibt, mit schönen Wanderwegen und abgelegenen Badestellen, an denen man ungestört schwimmen kann. Am schönsten ist die Insel gegen Abend, wenn die untergehende Sonne die weißen Häuserfassaden in ein warmes Gelb taucht. Am späten Nachmittag sind die engen Straßen und Wege in Oía oben auf dem Kraterrand, dem für viele hübschesten Ort der gesamten Ägäis, derart verstopft, dass die Insulaner mit Overtourism zu kämpfen haben. Mit Horden fotografierender Menschen, die der Sonne Beifall spenden, während sie blutrot im Meer versinkt. Das wird wohl nach Corona auf absehbare Zeit erst einmal anders sein. Die Romantik wird auf die Insel zurückkehren.
Auf den Wanderwegen der Insel wird man es wohl erst einmal noch einsamer werden. Und in den kleinen, abgelegenen Buchten auch. Die Wanderung von Firá nach Oía, die immerfort am Kraterrand entlangführt, dauert knapp vier Stunden. Wer sich nachmittags auf den Weg macht, bekommt den Sonnenuntergang trotzdem mit. An irgendeinem idyllischen Plätzchen, etwa am Kastell von Argyri.
Der Strände wegen nach Santorín zu fahren, wäre viel zu schade. Da gibt es auf den Nachbarinseln schönere. Auf der Vulkaninsel Santorín sind die Strände eher schwarz als weiß. Und heizen sich in der Mittagshitze derart auf, dass die Temperaturen an heißen Hochsommertagen gefühlt bei 40 Grad liegen. Doch schön baden lässt es sich trotzdem auf der weltberühmten Kykladeninsel: Im flach zum Meer abfallenden Inselosten findet man am kilometerlangen Hauptstrand von Períssa - umgeben von Bars und Restaurants - Liegen für faule Stunden und Tage. Ruhiger geht es am Red Beach bei Akrotíri mit dem roten Felsgestein zu und am steinigen White Beach, der von imposanten Bimssteinklippen umgeben ist.
Einen guten Blick auf die Insel liefert der Berg Profitis Ilías, der auch mit Mietwagen und Moped erreichbar ist. Etwas Kondition erfordert hingegen der Aufstieg zum Felsen von Skaros, der einen wunderschönen Panoramablick auf den Kraterrand von Oía bis Firá eröffnet und herrliche Fotoshootings ermöglicht. Um die Caldera zu erleben, nimmt man in Firá die Seilbahn (Euro 6,50) oder steigt ein paar Hundert Treppenstufen hinunter zum alten Hafen. Dort starten auch die Ausflugsboote zum Vulkan Néa Kaméni und zu den heißen Quellen von Paliá Kaméni (Halbtagstouren ab Euro 26, www.santorini-seaexcursions.com).
Santorín lässt sich auch individuell mit dem Scooter (Euro 25-30) oder per E-Bike erkunden, dann sind auch die vielen Hügel kein Problem (ab Euro 20/Tag, www.e-bikesantorini.gr). Wer keinen Mietwagen hat (ab Euro 150/Woche), nimmt vom Flughafen den Airport-Shuttle (ab Euro 13/Pers.) zum Hotel, ein Taxi kostet in etwa das Doppelte. Wer sich mit den Abfahrtszeiten vertraut macht, fährt mit dem Bus (Euro 1-3).
Hotel-Tipps Am Kraterrand: Wer nicht unbedingt in Oía wohnen möchte und sich mit dem zwischen Oía und Firá gelegenem Imerovígli zufriedengibt, findet mit den Studios und Apartments von »Merovigliosso« eine bezahlbare und trotzdem sehr nette und schöne Unterkunft mit kleinem Pool und Blick auf die Caldera (0030-22860-25950, www.merovigliosso.com, Budget-Studio ab Euro 80 ÜF).
Firá: Pauschal: Die »Panorama Studios« liegen oben am Kraterrand. Wer sich eines der Meerblick-Studios gönnt, genießt den phänomenalen Panoramablick von Anfang bis Ende. Mit kleinem Pool. 1 Wo Studio mit Meerblick inkl. Flug ab Euro 985 ÜF, Jahn Reisen.
Períssa: Urgemütlich und typisch griechisch: Das »Samsons Village« bietet Studios und Pool quasi direkt am Strand (0030-22860-83325, www.samsons.gr, Studio ab Euro 54).
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