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Die Rieser Bauerntorte ist ein Apfelmuskuchen aus Hefeteig. Foto: Andreas Drouve/dpa-tmn
Bauerntorte, Schnecken und Gin Bayerisch-Schwaben kulinarisch Bayerisch-Schwaben geht unterschiedlich durch den Magen: ob traditionell mit einer Rieser Bauerntorte oder innovativ mit Gin, Ackerbohnenhonig und Kreationen aus Kartoffeln. Fünf Begegnungen.
Dieser Mann liebt die Abwechslung. Spritzen setzen, Schnittverletzungen nähen. Und über neuen Rezepturen brüten - allerdings nicht für seine Patienten.
Eigentlich ist Karl-Friedrich Scheible Allgemeinmediziner mit eigener Praxis in Alerheim. Nebenher aber tüftelt er an hochprozentigem Gin aus der Region Bayerisch-Schwaben.
Schauplatz ist die heimische Küche, wo bereits zwei Erzeugnisse entstanden sind, die der 58-Jährige mit seiner Familie auf den Markt gebracht hat. Für die Wacholderbeeren, die Basis für Gin , hat er eine Lizenz zum Sammeln in den Heiden des Nördlinger Ries - eine uralte Kraterlandschaft, entstanden durch einen Meteoriteneinschlag vor rund 15 Millionen Jahren.
Wo sieht er Parallelen zwischen Haupt- und Nebenjob? Der Arzt überlegt kurz und sagt dann: «Bauchgefühl ist dabei, beim einen und beim andern.» Auf chirurgischer Präzision fußen auch seine Gin-Rezepturen - die bewahrt er im Safe auf.
Der steht in der Region Bayerisch-Schwaben - und der Name gibt schon Preis, wo man diese verordnen kann. Da wo sich das bayerische Kultur- und Sprachgut mit dem schwäbischen mischt, im nördlichen Teil des Regierungsbezirkes Schwaben in Bayern mit Augsburg als Zentrum.
Leindotteröl und Wildkräuterlikör In Bayerisch-Schwaben wimmelt es nur so vor fantasiereichen Köpfen, die nutzen, was ihnen die heimische Landschaft bietet. Dazu gehört auch Siglinde Beck, Kräuterpädagogin und Biobäuerin aus Oettingen. Bei ihren Naturführungen gilt für das Probieren das Prinzip: «All das, wo Menschenhand ohne Hilfsmittel herankommt, ist okay. Alles darüber gehört den Vögeln.»
Siglinde Beck ist Biobäuerin. Andreas Drouve/dpa-tmn
Wacholder aus dem Nördlinger Ries wird für Gin genutzt. Andreas Drouve/dpa-tmn
Hochprozentiges: Gin von Tüftler Karl-Friedrich Scheible steht neben einem Kräuterlikör. Andreas Drouve/dpa-tmn
Monika Samland ist Schneckenzüchterin. Andreas Drouve/dpa-tmn
Kennt man so noch nicht: Ackerbohnenhonig ist eine Spezialität. Andreas Drouve/dpa-tmn
Ursula Lensing ist Imkerin. Andreas Drouve/dpa-tmn
Karl-Friedrich Scheible - hier in der ehemaligen Brauerei seiner Familie - ist Arzt und Gin-Erfinder. Andreas Drouve/dpa-tmn
Diese Orangendrops werden Donauwörther Mond-Spritzer genannt. Andreas Drouve/dpa-tmn
Delikatesse: Diese Weinbergschnecke stammt aus den Beständen von Züchterin Monika Samland. Andreas Drouve/dpa-tmn
Diese Wildkräuterliköre sind eine Kreation der Biobäuerin Siglinde Beck. Andreas Drouve/dpa-tmn
Köchin Stefanie Pröbstle kennt sich mit Kartoffel-Kreationen aus. Andreas Drouve/dpa-tmn
Ausgefallen: Aus Ackerbohnen macht Imkerin Ursula Lensing einen ungewöhnlichen Honig. Andreas Drouve/dpa-tmn
Dieses leckere Kartoffel-Fladenbrot kommt aus der Küche von Stefanie Pröbstle. Andreas Drouve/dpa-tmn
Schönes Fleckchen: In Donauwörth werden seit 1864 Bonbons produziert. Andreas Drouve/dpa-tmn
Previous Next Ebenso gewissenhaft geht sie bei Pflanzen am Boden vor: «Da soll später niemand bemerken, dass überhaupt gesammelt wurde.» Beck spürt Beifuß und Wildgemüse wie den Guten Heinrich auf. Sie verarbeitet Holunderblüten zu Gelee, setzt Wildkräuterlikör an und Essig mit Brunnenkresse. Und Öl presst sie aus Leindotter, was «hervorragend» zu Kartoffelsalat und Kräuterquark passe.
Weinbergschnecken ohne Weinberg Herrin über eine andere Art von Hof nahe der Donau bei Nersingen ist Monika Samland. Die 59-Jährige züchtet Weinbergschnecken. Alljährlich holt sie 40.000 «schwäbische Austern», wie sie diese Schnecken nennt, aus ihrem Zuchtgelände und beliefert damit die Gastronomie - lebend oder eingekocht in Wurzelgemüsebrühe mit Weißwein.
«Schnecken sind nicht schleimig, nur feucht», tritt sie Vorurteilen entgegen. Und gesund seien sie: «Sie haben viel Eiweiß und so gut wie kein Fett.» Ihr Tipp und Leibgericht: das Schneckenfleisch in Champignonköpfe füllen, darauf Bärlauchbutter und ausbacken.
Die tolle Knolle aus Leipheim Tradition und Innovation verzahnen sich auch bei Stefanie Pröbstle aus Leipheim. Die 39-Jährige ist Köchin und Co-Autorin eines Kochbuchs zu schwäbischen Kartoffelrezepten . Pröbstle schwärmt vom Kartoffel-Fladenbrot, das mehrere Tage hält, und vom Kartoffelteig für Nudeln oder Waffeln. Ihre «Buabaspitzle» - eine Art Schnupfnudel - passen als Beilage zum Schnitzel, als Vorspeise zum Salat oder werden in der süßen Variante mit Walnusseis zum Dessert.
Persönlich schwört Pröbstle auf die denkbar einfachste Zubereitung der Knollen: «Nur heiß gegart aus dem Ofen. Dann Butter drauf und Salz. Immer mit Schale.» Bratkartoffel mag sie hingegen nicht.
Honig aus Ackerbohnen Ausnahmslos Süßes im Sinn hat Ursula Lensing . Die 50-jährige ist Profi-Imkerin. Mit Folgen - beim Treffen sind ihre Wangen nach einem Stich unter die Nase ein wenig geschwollen. «Als Imker wird man oft gestochen, daran gewöhnt man sich», sagt sie. Bienenvölker seien eben unterschiedlich gelaunt.
Zusammen mit ihrem Lebensgefährten ist sie Besitzerin von 150 Völkern im Wittelsbacher Land. Raritäten der Öko-Produktpalette sind der Ackerbohnenhonig und die Jahrgangshonige. «Diese zeigen, wie unterschiedlich Honig schmecken und aussehen kann, obgleich es dieselben Lagen und dieselben Völker waren, nur in einem anderen Jahr», erläutert Lensing.
Hat die Imkerin kulinarische Tipps? «Garnelen kann man wunderbar in Honig karamellisieren», sagt Lensing. Und sie vermischt Blütenhonig mit Apfelessig und rät: «Ein Teelöffel pur oder mit Wasser oder Tee verdünnt ist gut vor dem Frühstück, um die Verdauung anzuregen. Oder auch als isotonischer Drink.»
Tourismusverband Allgäu/Bayerisch-Schwaben, Schießgrabenstr. 14, 86150 Augsburg (Tel. 0821 / 450 401 10, www.bayerisch-schwaben.de)
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