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Tanzende Polarlichter erstrahlen am Nachthimmel über Fairbanks. Foto: Finn Huwald/dpa-tmn
USA Polarlichter am Highway - Herbstlicher Roadtrip in Alaska Farbenprächtige Wälder, schneebedeckte Berge, viel Wildnis: Eine Fahrt von Anchorage nach Fairbanks führt durch faszinierende Natur. Interessante Begegnungen inklusive - nicht nur mit Zweibeinern.
Frühmorgens geht’s los am Hostel in Anchorage. Wir verlassen die größte Stadt Alaskas - trotz ihrer privilegierten Lage am Meer und der sie einrahmenden Berge.
Wir wollen nach Fairbanks, im Zentrum von Alaska, 400 Kilometer südlich des Polarkreises. Es ist Ende September, vor einigen Tagen hat die Natur begonnen, ihre bunten Farben spielen zu lassen.
Über den bekannten Glenn Highway steuern wir in Richtung Norden nach Palmer, eine landwirtschaftlich geprägte Kleinstadt. Entlang der Küste, dann auf die teils schon verschneiten Berge zu. Das Wetter ist schön. Die weißen Spitzen der Gebirge zeichnen sich vom blauen Himmel ab.
Dass Alaska, fast fünfmal so groß wie Deutschland, nicht nur der größte, sondern auch der am dünnsten besiedelte US-Staat ist, davon bekommt man ab Palmer eine erste Ahnung. Nur noch sporadisch führt die Alaska Route 3 an Dörfern vorbei. Die Natur übernimmt allmählich.
Michael Zak aus Minnesota, der am Steuer sitzt, ist begeistert von der Schönheit, die hinter jeder Kurve wartet. Dem 40-Jährigen, der beruflich nach Fairbanks muss, habe ich mich für diesen Roadtrip spontan angeschlossen. So bin ich nicht allein in einem Mietwagen unterwegs, den ich in Fairbanks jederzeit hätte übernehmen können.
Über den schnurgeraden Highway geht es in netter Begleitung durch Laubwälder in allen erdenklichen Rot-, Gelb-, Braun- und Orangetönen. Und auch durch die typischen Nadelwälder Alaskas. Während sich oben auf den Bergspitzen der Winter langsam breit macht, herrscht unten der Indian Summer.
Am höchsten Berg Nordamerikas Wenig später dann eine völlig andere Landschaft. Nun prägt eine dunkle buschige Ebene mit Bergen links und rechts die Szenerie. Entlang des Highways verlaufen Gleise. Ein vor allem bei Touristen beliebter Zug der Alaska Railroad fährt von Anchorage ebenfalls nach Fairbanks. Doch wir im Auto haben den Vorteil, dass wir überall anhalten können.
Nach etwa drei Stunden erreichen wir den Denali-Nationalpark, der sich über knapp 20.000 Quadratkilometer erstreckt und jährlich rund 400.000 Besucher anzieht - mehr als die Hälfte der Einwohnerzahl Alaskas.
Verschneite Berge im Hintergrund: die Skyline von Anchorage. Finn Huwald/dpa-tmn
Leuchtende Wälder: Der Indian Summer in Alaska ist ein buntes Naturschauspiel. Finn Huwald/dpa-tmn
Unbefestigt, kalt, klar: ein Flusslauf im Denali-Nationalpark. Finn Huwald/dpa-tmn
Von dem «Denali Viewpoint South» hat man den perfekten Blick auf den höchsten Berg Nordamerikas. Wenn das Wetter mitspielt. Finn Huwald/dpa-tmn
Sichtung bei Anchorage: Elche sind in Alaska keine Seltenheit und schaffen es manchmal vor die Kameralinse. Finn Huwald/dpa-tmn
Eine Lokomotive der Alaska Railroad. Auch mit dem Zug kann man von Anchorage nach Fairbanks fahren. Finn Huwald/dpa-tmn
Nicht jede Ecke in Alaska ist während des Herbsts bunt. Es gibt auch die dunklen buschigen Landschaften wie hier. Finn Huwald/dpa-tmn
Leere Straßen durch die Weite: Auf den Highways inmitten der Natur Alaskas ist nicht viel los. Finn Huwald/dpa-tmn
Auch Bären kann man auf einem Roadtrip durch Alaska begegnen. Finn Huwald/dpa-tmn
Farbenprächtige Wälder, schneebedeckte Berge, viel Wildnis: Eine Fahrt von Anchorage nach Fairbanks führt durch faszinierende Natur und vergeht wie im Traum. dpa-infografik GmbH/dpa-tmn
Previous Next Der im Park gelegene Mount Denali, mit 6.190 Metern höchster Berg Nordamerikas, hieß bis zu seiner Umbenennung im Jahr 2015 Mount McKinley. Er ist ein Wahrzeichen Alaskas. An klaren Tagen kann man ihn vom mehr als 200 Kilometer entfernten Anchorage aus sehen.
Wir halten an einem Parkplatz mit dem Schild «Denali Viewpoint South», ein kurzer Weg führt oberhalb eines breiten Flusses zu einer Stelle: Vor hier ist der Blick auf den Gipfel des Denali fantastisch. Ihm und der ganzen verschneiten Bergkette zu Füßen: abermals bunte Wälder über weite Flächen.
Warnung vor Elchen und Bären Leuchtende Farben beeindrucken über die gesamte Strecke. Dabei ist der Highway fast immer leer. Dass das unterwegs nicht mit dem Tank passiert, darauf sollte man achten. Tankstellen sind für US-Verhältnisse rar gesät. Alaska liegt durch Kanada abgetrennt weit abgeschieden im hohen Norden, quasi am Rande der Welt.
Wir sind meist fernab jeglicher Zivilisation unterwegs, und das markieren auch die Schilder im Denali-Nationalpark. An jedem Parkplatz wird vor Bären und Elchen gewarnt. Zur Tierwelt zählen auch Alaska-Schneeschafe, Wölfe und Karibus. Alle fünf werden in Anlehnung an die Natur Afrikas «Big Five» genannt. Vom Highway aus aber bestehen kaum Chancen, Tiere zu erspähen, denken wir noch.
Als wir Fairbanks nach rund sechs Stunden Autofahrt erreichen, stellen wir fest: Ein Hingucker ist die einst von Goldgräbern gegründete Stadt nicht - große Straßen, Industrie, kein wirkliches Zentrum. Dafür aber stimmt der Zeitpunkt unserer Ankunft.
Denn im September ist die Polarlicht-Saison angebrochen. Und die Gegend um Fairbanks zählt zu den bekanntesten Orten Alaskas, in denen die Northern Lights, die Polarlichter, beobachtet werden können. In der Dunkelheit des Abends warten wir. Und dann plötzlich tanzen grüne Lichter am Himmel über der Stadt, die sich bald rosa verfärben. Stundenlang sehen wir und andere Gäste des Hostels dem Spektakel zu.
Rückfahrt mit Zwischenfall Am nächsten Morgen geht es den gleichen Weg zurück Richtung Anchorage, eine Alternativroute gibt es nicht. Langweilig?
«Ich bin dreimal nach Alaska gefahren, und es wird nie langweilig», schwärmt Michael. Die Nacht war kalt, der Winter hat seine Fühler bis in die Ebenen ausgestreckt. Entlang der Strecke tauchen kleine Seen auf, die leicht vereist sind, verschneite Berge spiegeln sich darin.
Und nach knapp der Hälfte der Fahrt passiert es dann: Ein kleiner Grizzlybär rennt auf die Straße. Er erschreckt sich vor dem Auto, stellt sich auf zwei Beine und macht sich groß. Dann huscht er in den Wald. Fürs Erinnerungsfoto war er zu schnell, nicht aber für die Erinnerung an den Roadtrip durchs raue Alaska.
Links, Tipps, Praktisches: Reisezeit: Jede Jahreszeit bietet ihre Schönheiten. Der Herbst zeigt ab Mitte September den farbenfrohen Indian Summer. Im Anschluss reist man durch eine verschneite Winterlandschaft.
Anreise: Nonstop-Flüge nach Anchorage führt Condor saisonal von Frankfurt am Main aus durch, ansonsten sollte man ab Deutschland mit mindestens einem Zwischenstopp planen.
Einreise: Deutsche Staatsangehörige benötigen einen gültigen Reisepass sowie eine elektronische Einreisegenehmigung (Esta ). Sie kostet 21 Dollar.
Währung: 1 US-Dollar entspricht 0,91 Euro (Stand 10.10.2024)
Roadtrip: Die beschriebene Strecke ist knapp 600 Kilometer lang. Sie führt von Anchorage an der Küste des Pazifischen Ozeans in Richtung Norden über den Glenn Highway (Alaska Route 1) nach Palmer und von dort weiter über den George Parks Highway (Alaska Route 3) durch die Wildnis des Denali-Nationalparks nach Fairbanks im Zentrum des Landes.
Alternative Zugreise: Die beiden größten Städte Alaskas verbindet auch eine Zugstrecke der Alaska Railroad . Die Fahrt dauert etwa doppelt so lange wie mit dem Auto. Hin- und Rückfahrt kosten gut 400 Euro.
Zeitverschiebung: Alaska ist Deutschland um zehn Stunden hinterher.
Weitere Auskünfte: Travel Alaska ; Visit Anchorage Alaska ; Explore Fairbanks Alaska
Copyright 2024, dpa (www.dpa.de). Alle Rechte vorbehalten
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