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Eine Perle an Marokkos Atlantikküste: Asilah mit seinen weiß und blau gestrichenen Häusern
Foto: ... Marokkos Atlantikküste Ein Paradies nicht nur für Surfer Ursprüngliche Küstendörfer, naturbelassene Strände und Surfparadiese: An Marokkos fast 2000 Kilometer langer Atlantikküste trifft der Orient in seiner ganzen Schönheit auf den tosenden Ozean. Hier reiten Surfer auf Kamelen und hängen Ziegen in Bäumen.
Etwas enttäuscht kommt Yassin Said aus dem Wasser und legt das Surfbrett in den Sand. Das Meer ist einfach zu ruhig.
Doch dann tritt Ibrahim an ihn heran. »Die besten Wellen findest du dort drüben. Ich bringe dich hin, wenn du möchtest«, schlägt der Kameltreiber vor und zeigt ganz zum anderen Ende des Strandes. »Es kostet dich nur wenige Dirham.«
Gemächlich trottet das Kamel los, Said trägt das Surfbrett. »So exotisch kann Surfen in Marokko sein«, sagt er. Langsam verschwindet Essaouira im Hintergrund. Nur die mächtige Festungsmauer der Küstenstadt ist noch zu sehen, hinter der sich die Medina befindet. Die historische Altstadt wurde 2001 zum Unesco-Weltkulturerbe erklärt.
Blauweiß getünchte Häuserfassaden erinnern an Essaouiras portugiesische Vergangenheit. Doch der Gebetsruf der Muezzine erinnert die Besucher daran, dass sie sich nicht an der Algarve befinden, sondern zwei Autostunden westlich von Marrakesch im Süden Marokkos.
In den Straßen riecht es nach Lederwaren, orientalischen Gewürzen, Minztee und natürlich Fisch, der in den zahlreichen Restaurants häufig in einer Tajine zubereitet und serviert wird. In den 60er und 70er Jahren entdeckten Hippies, Aussteiger und Künstler Essaouira für sich. Sogar Jimi Hendrix und Bob Marley kamen hier zum Relaxen hin. Danach fanden vor allem Wind- und Kitesurfer in Essaouira ihr Paradies. Schon seit einigen Jahren erobern sie auch die Küste nördlich und südlich von Essaouria.
»Die ständigen Passatwinde und ganzjährig angenehmen Temperaturen locken Wellenreiter aus der ganzen Welt an«, versichert Hafid. Der Marokkaner unterhält in dem Küstendorf Imsouane seine Surfschule mit einigen Zimmern zum Schlafen. Sie als Hotelzimmer zu bezeichnen, wäre wohl übertrieben.
Bei fast allen Unterkünften am Strand handelt es sich eher um bunte, fantasievoll in die Klippen gebaute Steinhäuschen im Hippie-Stil und spartanisch eingerichteten Räumen – aber mit malerischen Ausblicken auf den Ozean. Wer nicht gerade surft, genießt die Ruhe und trinkt Minztee. Sonst passiert hier gar nichts.
Imsouane gehört mit Essaouira, Safi, Taghazoute und Sidi Kaouki zu den bekanntesten Surf- und Kitesurfspots an Marokkos Atlantikküste. Hier gibt es kaum Strandbars oder Touristenboote. Doch neben Wassersportlern begeistern sich auch immer mehr normale Urlauber für die naturbelassenen, kilometerlangen Strände im Süden Marokkos. Massentourismus wie im nahen Agadir gibt es hier trotzdem noch nicht.
Im Norden von Essaouira lockt der Strand Lalla Fatna mit klarem Wasser und viel Einsamkeit. Am kilometerlangen Sandstrand von Cap Tafelney bekommt man nur heimische Fischer zu Gesicht. Je weiter es nach Süden geht, desto einsamer wird es.
Auf der Fahrt glaubt man zunächst an Halluzinationen, einen Effekt der Hitze – aber da klettern tatsächlich Ziegen auf die Bäume, um an die gelben Früchte der Arganbäume zu kommen. Das Fruchtfleisch ist extrem bitter und für Menschen völlig ungenießbar. Aber Ziegenhirte Hassan interessieren vor allem die sonnenblumenartigen Kerne, die seine Ziegen wieder ausscheiden. Die verkauft er an eine der vielen Frauenverbände, die in der Region aus den Kernen das weltbekannte Arganöl herstellen, das zu Kosmetika verarbeitet wird.
Langsam nimmt die Vegetation ab. Die Nähe zur Sahara wird spürbar. Ab Sidi Ifni, einer alten spanischen Garnisonsstadt, werden auch die Strände immer länger, einsamer und wüstenhafter. Die Spanier unterhielten hier seit 1476 einen Stützpunkt für den Sklavenhandel und den Fischfang. Erst 1968 zogen sie sich zurück. Viele ältere Einwohner sprechen noch Spanisch.
Nördlich von Sidi Ifni trifft man auf die wohl spektakulärste Küstenlandschaft ganz Marokkos. In Legzira überspannen zwei gigantische Felsbögen den gleichnamigen Strand, an dem auch immer wieder gerne Werbefilmer drehen. Wunderwerke der Natur, von denen jedoch eines im vergangenen Jahr zusammengebrochen ist.
Marokkos 2000 Kilometer lange Atlantikküste bietet auch weiter im Norden noch einige Highlights. Wer an Agadir und Casablanca vorbeifährt, verpasst nichts. Doch auf dem Weg vom Süden nach Rabat würden vor allem Feinschmecker einen Riesenfehler begehen, wenn sie nicht in Oualidia hielten. Der bei Marokkanern beliebte Küstenort mit seiner wunderschönen Lagune gilt im Land als einer der besten Orte für Fisch und Meeresfrüchte.
Marokkos Hauptstadt Rabat selber gehört zu den oft unterschätzten Orten der marokkanischen Küste. Die meisten kennen Marrakesch und Fès. Doch Marokkos dritte Königsstadt steht bei vielen nicht auf dem Reiseplan. Ein Fehler. Rabat ist längst nicht so touristisch wie etwa Marrakesch, hat allerdings mehr zu bieten. Der Souk-Markt ist ein echter Hingucker, die Altstadt hinter der Festungsmauer ein faszinierendes Gassengewirr in Blau und Weiß, mit andalusisch-maurischen Gartenanlagen und tollen Cafés.
Wem die geschäftige Hauptstadt am Atlantik zu groß wird, sollte ins verschlafene Asilah fahren, eine der schönsten marokkanischen Küstenstädte überhaupt – und dennoch kaum von Ausländern besucht. Marokkanische Künstler verzierten die schneeweißen Häuserfassaden in der niedlichen Altstadt mit Wandmalereien. Die Medina liegt direkt am Meer und ist von einer mittelalterlichen Festungsmauer geschützt. Hier trifft der Orient in seiner ganzen Schönheit auf den tosenden Ozean.
Reisezeit: Die Sommer in Marokko können sehr heiß werden. Beste Reisezeit ist daher der Herbst von September bis November und der Frühling zwischen März und Anfang Juni.
Anreise und Formalitäten: Zahlreiche Airlines fliegen von Deutschland nach Rabat, Marrakesch, Casablanca oder Agadir. Von hier aus weiter mit dem Mietwagen. Für die Einreise braucht man nur einen Reisepass, der noch sechs Monate nach Reisebeginn gültig sein muss.
Informationen: Marokkanisches Fremdenverkehrsamt, Graf-Adolf-Straße 59, 40210 Düsseldorf, Tel. 0211-370551, Visit Morocco
(10.10.2017, dpa)
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