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Nicht nur per Schiff, auch auf dem Luftweg ist St. Helena bald zu erreichen. Die Atlantikinsel bekommt einen Flughafen
Foto: Jon Tonks/St Helena Tourism St. Helena Zum Touristenziel wird die Insel durch neuen Flughafen
Auf halber Strecke zwischen Afrika und Lateinamerika schlummerte St. Helena bisher in Abgeschiedenheit dahin. Ein unter größten Mühen in die Felsen gesprengter Flughafen bringt jetzt Napoleons einstigen Verbannungsort auf die Landkarte für Touristen.
Am Tag, an dem auf St. Helena die Neuzeit an die Pforte pochte, wehte eine stramme Brise vom Meer. Dennoch setzte der Südafrikaner Grant Brighton seine zweimotorige Beechcraft King Air 200 am 15. September sicher auf die Landebahn.
Er schrieb Geschichte. Denn mit der ersten Landung auf dem vor seiner Vollendung stehenden neuen Flughafen ist es mit der Abgeschiedenheit der Atlantikinsel schlagartig vorbei. 200 Jahre nach der Niederlage des französischen Kaisers Napoleon I. in Waterloo und seiner Verbannung nach St. Helena wurde eine der entlegensten Inseln dieser Erde plötzlich auf die Weltkarte des internationalen Tourismus gehoben.
Die Insel wurde gerade vom Reiseführer »Lonely Planet« in die Top-10-Liste der Regionen aufgenommen, die aus dem Dornröschenschlaf erwachen. Jeder kannte bisher den Namen, doch kaum einer wusste so recht, wo genau St. Helena liegt. Wer die Insel besuchen wollte, musste eine beschwerliche und lange Postdampfer-Fahrt in Kauf nehmen. Denn das britische Überseegebiet liegt etwa auf halber Strecke zwischen Afrika und Lateinamerika im Südatlantik: rund 2000 Kilometer von Angola im Osten, knapp 3000 bis Brasilien im Westen.
Seit ihrer Besiedlung im 16. Jahrhundert waren Versorgungsschiffe die einzige Verbindung der »Saints« - so die Bezeichnung der Insulaner - mit dem Rest der Welt. Das ist nun anders. Seit vor vier Jahren der Bauauftrag für einen Verkehrsflughafen an eine südafrikanische Baufirma vergeben wurde, leisteten die 600 Arbeiter eine wahre Herkulesaufgabe. Sie mussten nicht nur tonnenschwere Felsen wegsprengen, sondern obendrein ein ganzes Tal auffüllen, um die 1950 Meter lange Landebahn bauen zu können.
Am 26. Februar 2016 soll die feierliche Übergabe stattfinden. Die British-Airways-Tochter Comair will dann mit einer Boeing 737-800 von Johannesburg aus wöchentlich einen fünfstündigen Flug nach St. Helena anbieten. Zudem plant die Fluglinie des in Hannover ansässigen TUI-Konzerns, Tuifly, ab Ostern von London aus regelmäßige Flüge im Auftrag der Atlantic Star Airlines auf die Insel. »Wir erwarten dadurch einen enormen Schub für den Tourismus«, sagt eine Mitarbeiterin des örtlichen Tourismusbüros in Jamestown. Doch es gibt auch warnende Stimmen - wie etwa den Insel-Ökonomen Niall O'Keefe.
»Die große, weite Welt hat nun auf dem Luftweg Zugang zum Abenteuer, dem historischen Erbe und der natürlichen Schönheit St. Helenas«, schrieb er den »Saints« ins Stammbuch. Auf der Online-Plattform der Insel gab er jedoch zu bedenken: »Es bleibt noch viel zu tun, um unsere Beherbergungs- und Tourismusindustrie in den kommenden Jahren zu entwickeln.« Denn die wenigen Insel-Pensionen, die bisher für die gelegentlichen Gäste ausreichten, dürften künftig nicht mehr genügen. Schon gibt es daher Pläne für ein 32-Betten-Hotel.
Schwarze Basaltklippen, zerklüftete Felsformationen, üppig-grüne Vegetation: Es ist ein Paradies für Stadtflüchtlinge auf der Suche nach Ruhe. Jamestown, der Hauptort, zählt mit 1000 Einwohnern fast ein Viertel der Inselbevölkerung. Bei der Ankunft dürfen Reisende Wellen und Brandung nicht scheuen - vor St. Helena wird ausgebootet wie noch zu den Zeiten des entmachteten Franzosen-Kaisers, dessen letztes Domizil heute eine der Hauptattraktionen der Insel ist.
Entdeckt wurde St. Helena durch den portugiesischen Admiral João de Nova auf seiner Heimreise von Indien. Am 21. Mai 1502 kam er mit dem Schiff dort an, wo sich jetzt der Hauptort Jamestown befindet. Jahrelang war die Insel eine Zwischenstation für Seefahrer, um sich mit frischem Wasser und Früchten einzudecken. 1988 bekam die Insel eine eigene Verfassung, wird aber weiter von der britischen Regierung subventioniert.
Immerhin ist Königin Elizabeth II. Staatsoberhaupt. Ihr königlich-britisches Postschiff »St. Helena«, das bisher die Verbindung zur Außenwelt absicherte, wird nun außer Dienst gestellt.
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