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Vergnüglich ist die Kajaktour entlang der Küste des Abel Tasman National Park, die hier in der Sandy Bay beginnt
Foto: Tourism New Zealand Neuseeland-Reise Urlaub auf der Südinsel Weiter weg als nach Neuseeland können Reisende ihren Problemen kaum entfliehen. Mit zunehmender Entfernung nimmt die Bereitschaft zu, sich auf Neues und Unkonventionelles einzulassen: beeindruckende Naturerlebnisse, außergewöhnliche Menschen und skurrile Unterkünfte.
Der Meeresarm Queen Charlotte Sound ist ein exzellenter Ort, um die Mühen des langen Fluges von Deutschland nach Neuseeland hinter sich zu lassen. Und die dortigen Sorgen.
Ankunft auf der Südinsel: Vom Flughafen in Nelson geht es zum Hafen in Picton und von dort weiter mit einem Wassertaxi in die Fjordarme. Nach 20 Minuten ist die »Lochmara Lodge« erreicht. Die Abendsonne spiegelt sich auf Wellen, die gleichmäßig rauschen. Der Besucher schaltet fast von selbst einige Gänge runter.
Am folgenden Morgen peitschen die »Roaring Forties« - das sind starke Westwinde - weiße Schaumkämme über den Fjord. Für Guide Jeremy Martin kein Grund, die verabredete Tour im Kajak ganz abzusagen. »Hier gibt es so viel zu entdecken«, sagt er. Also wird erst gewandert, und zwar einen Abschnitt auf dem 71 Kilometer langen Queen Charlotte Track. Am Startpunkt, dem Ship Cove, soll es einst zu den ersten Begegnungen zwischen Europäern und Maori gekommen sein. James Cook kam 1770 hier an und danach mehrmals wieder.
Am nächsten Tag klappt es auch mit der Tour im Seekajak in der Abel Tasman Bucht. Es ist Ebbe, das Wasser steht tief in der Sandy Bay. Marty Milner von Abel Tasman Kayaks muss seine Gäste samt Ausrüstung erst einige Hundert Meter mit dem Traktor bis zum Wasser kutschieren. Nach einer kurzen Überfahrt nach Awaroa gestaltet sich die Kajaktour entlang der Küste des Abel Tasman National Parks eher vergnüglich. Delfine begleiten die Paddler, am Ufer spielen Robbenjunge, bis die wachsame Mutter sie in ihre sichere Nähe ruft.
Auf dem Weg in Richtung Südosten passiert man auf der Banks-Halbinsel im kleinen Ort Little River eine merkwürdig anmutende Ansammlung von Getreidesilos. Gäste mit Koffern verschwinden in den Aluminiumtürmen. Das vermeintliche Getreidelager entpuppt sich als Hotel. «Wir leben hier in einem von der Landwirtschaft geprägten Gebiet», sagt Architekt und Besitzer Stuart Wright-Stow, der vor 20 Jahren von Auckland hierherkam, weil er Ruhe suchte. «Überall begegnet man Silos, warum nicht Leute darin unterbringen?», fragte er sich.
Stuarts Lieblingsplatz, die Tumbledown Bay, ist nur 30 Autominuten entfernt. Dort leuchtet das Tussockgras gelbgrün auf kargen Felsen. Der Wind pfeift, weit und breit kein Mensch. Hektik, Lärm und Chaos sind an diesem Ort ganz weit weg.
Doch das Leben auf der Banks-Halbinsel kann auch anders aussehen. In Akaroa zum Beispiel, wo fast stündlich Touristen aus der ganzen Welt Bussen entsteigen. Sie gehen an Bord eines der Ausflugsschiffe oder schlendern über die Uferpromenade. Abends trifft man sich dann im viktorianischen «Beaufort House» zum Smalltalk bei Wein und Käse.
Die Weiterreise nach Süden führt durch die riesige Graslandschaft der Canterbury-Ebene, in die sich auch Jasmine und Mike mit ihren Kindern zurückgezogen haben. Auf einem Feldstück nahe des Farmhauses in Kirwee stehen eine Kuh, ein Pferd, ein Schwein, zwei Schafe und ein überdimensionierter Planwagen, der als Unterkunft dient. Wieder so ein verrückter Ort für ein Bed and Breakfast!
Tekapo, drei Autostunden weiter südlich gelegen. Hier arbeitet Tim Rayward von Air Safaris. Heute regnet es, ein kräftiger Wind bläst über die Ausläufer der Südalpen. Tim verschiebt den gebuchten Flug zum Mount Cook unbürokratisch auf den nächsten Morgen. Tatsächlich: bester Sonnenschein! Die Maschine vom Typ GAF Nomad steigt über den türkisblauen Lake Tekapo, über die Gletscher Franz Joseph und Sir William Fox, umfliegt einige der mehr als 150 Zweitausender - und umkreist schließlich den Berg der Berge Neuseelands, den 3724 Meter hohen Mount Cook. Eine fantastische Szenerie.
Wer «Herr der Ringe» gesehen hat, erkennt in dem Berg schnell den Gebirgszug aus der Eröffnungssequenz des zweiten Teils der Trilogie. Überhaupt finden sich rund um die Südalpen zahlreiche Drehorte zu den Filmen Peter Jacksons.
Die letzte Station der Reise über Neuseelands Südinsel bietet dann wieder ein großartiges Fjordpanorama. Doch im Fiordland kommen einem die Berge steiler und die Meeresarme enger vor als im Norden. Hier stürzen sich Wasserfälle die Felsen hinab und spiegeln sich im klaren Wasser des Fjords Doubtful Sound. Spätestens an diesem Ort herrscht eine allumfassende Stille, die auf angenehme Weise den Reisenden erfasst. Die Alltagssorgen sind jetzt wirklich sehr weit weg.
Neuseelands Südinsel
Klima und Reisezeit: Von Dezember bis Februar ist es auf der Südinsel meist warm. Aber auch in der Nebensaison von März bis April gibt es schöne Tage, und die Preise für Mietwagen und Unterkünfte sinken.
Anreise: Zum Beispiel mit Air New Zealand oder Lufthansa von Deutschland aus mit einem Stopp nach Auckland. Dann mit dem Flieger nach Nelson, von dort am besten mit dem Mietwagen weiter.
Einreise: Deutsche Staatsangehörige benötigen für einen touristischen Aufenthalt von bis zu drei Monaten kein Visum.
Einreisegebühr: Neuseeland führt zum 1. Januar 2016 eine neue Einreisegebühr ein. Flugreisende zahlen umgerechnet rund 13 Euro, Kreuzfahrer etwa 15,70 Euro. Darüber informiert die neuseeländische Regierung. Die Abgabe wird direkt beim Ticketkauf von den Airlines und Reedereien aufgeschlagen. Sie wird zunächst für 30 Monate erhoben.
(22.12.2015, dpa)
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