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Ein Halbkreis wie gezeichnet: Die Bucht von San Sebastián vom Berg Igueldo aus gesehen. Experten sind sich einig: Dies ist einer der schönsten Stadtstrände der Welt
Foto: Manuel Meyer San Sebastian Spaniens schicke Perle wird Europäische Kulturhauptstadt San Sebastián am nordspanischen Golf von Biskaya ist Filmstadt, Feinschmeckerparadies, Festivalmetropole und Surf-Mekka. Im kommenden Jahr kommt noch ein Titel hinzu: Europäische Kulturhauptstadt 2016.
Jone Karres Azurmendi war schon unzählige Male auf dem Igueldo-Berg. »Es ist einfach der schönste Blick auf Donostia«, versichert die deutsch-baskische Filmemacherin und Reiseführerin. Donostia ist die baskische Bezeichnung für San Sebastián.
Das Küstenstädtchen im nordspanischen Baskenland, das 2016 zusammen mit dem polnischen Breslau (Wroclaw) Europäische Kulturhauptstadt ist, wird wegen seiner Schönheit und günstigen Lage im Golf von Biskaya auch gerne die »Perle des Kantabrischen Meeres« genannt. Muschelförmig ist die Bucht La Concha. Sie wird umrahmt vom Igueldo-Berg und dem gegenüberliegenden Urgull, zu dessen Füßen sich der königliche Segelclub, der alte Fischerhafen und die Altstadt ausbreiten.
Zwischen Igueldo und Urgull bilden die Strände Ondarreta und La Concha einen eineinhalb Kilometer langen Halbkreis. Fast alle Reiseführer zählen sie zu den schönsten Stadtstränden der Welt.
Jone gerät ins Schwärmen, wenn sie über San Sebastián redet. Schnell begreift man, warum ihr Unternehmen Adorebasque heißt. Das heißt so viel wie »Liebe für das Baskische«. Sie erzählt von der baskischen Sprache, der eigenen Kultur und von Hautproblemen. Es waren nämlich Hautreizungen, die San Sebastián zu einem der attraktivsten Seebäder und Urlaubsziele Spaniens machten, versichert die Deutsch-Baskin.
Um ihre dermatologischen Probleme zu lindern, wurde Königin Isabella II. das milde Seeklima von San Sebastián empfohlen. Seit 1845 verbrachte die Monarchin mehrere Sommer in Donostia. Wunderschöne Gebäude aus der Belle Epoque entstanden.
Heute besteht die Prominenz hauptsächlich aus Hollywood-Stars, die im September zum Internationalen Filmfestival nach San Sebastián kommen. Julia Roberts, Brad Pitt, Meryl Streep, Robert de Niro: Sie alle verliebten sich in diese Stadt. Aber natürlich nicht nur die: »Unsere Einwohner halten San Sebastián für eine der schönsten Städte der Welt und wissenschaftliche Umfragen belegen, dass sich dies tatsächlich auch auf die Zufriedenheit der Menschen hier auswirkt«, erzählt Bürgermeister Eneko Goia.
Spätestens mit der internationalen Aufmerksamkeit des Europäischen Kulturhauptstadtjahres dürfte es mit dem Geheimtipp-Status vorbei sein. Mit über 60 spannenden Kulturevents - von Antikriegsfestivals bis zu baskisch-kulinarischen Interpretationen von Shakespeares Sommernachtstraum - sollen Einheimische und Besucher überrascht werden. Die Leitmotive der Veranstaltungen: Menschenrechte, besseres Zusammenleben und Wellen bürgerlicher Energie.
Die meisten Urlauber kommen aber wegen der Gaumenfreuden. San Sebastián ist die unbestrittene Gastronomie-Welthauptstadt. Mit 16 Michelin-Sternen gibt es hier die größte Sterne-Dichte der Welt. »Nirgendwo isst man so gut wie in San Sebastián«, versichert Juan Mari Arzak. Seine innovative und doch bodenständige Avantgarde-Küche machten sein Drei-Sterne-Restaurant zu einem der besten der Welt.
Anreise:
Lufthansa und Eurowings fliegen von Frankfurt, Düsseldorf und München direkt Bilbao an. Von hier aus weiter mit Bus oder Bahn nach San Sebastián.
Unterkunft:
In der Altstadt gibt es zahlreiche günstige Hostels und kleinere Hotels. Das »Maria Cristina« oder das »Hotel de Londres« gehören zu den gehobenen Klassikern der Stadt.
EU-Kulturhauptstadtprogramm:
Stiftung San Sebastián 2016, Calle Easo Kalea 43, 20006 San Sebastián, Tel.: 0034 943483344.
Informationen:
Fremdenverkehrsamt San Sebastián, Boulevard 8, 2003 San Sebastián, Tel.: 0034 943481166
Literatur:
Georges Hausemer und Susanne Jaspers: Donostia/San Sebastián. Die glücklichste Stadt der Welt, capybarabooks, ca. 190 Seiten, 16,95 Euro, ISBN-13: 978-9995943028.
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