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Estlands Hauptstadt wächst dynamisch und bietet Besuchern mit jedem Jahr mehr
Städtereise ins Baltikum Estlands Hauptstadt Tallinn wandelt sich ständig Tallinn erfindet sich permanent neu. Dank kreativer Köpfe ist Estlands Hauptstadt längst in der Zukunft angekommen - versteht sich aber auch darauf, das Alte zu bewahren.
Jaan-Laur Tähepold deutet auf ein schickes Café in der Altstadt und ist sich sicher: »Das war letzte Woche noch nicht da.« Dass in seiner Heimatstadt überall Neues entsteht, verwundert den Tourguide längst nicht mehr. Tallinn boomt, setzt Trends, verändert sich rasend schnell. Warum? »Vielleicht, weil wir sehr vieles aufholen mussten, was durch die Sowjetzeiten verhindert war«, antwortet der Soziologe.
Industrie-Charme und Kultur Tallinn steckt voll kreativer Köpfe, die verrottete Industrieanlagen in blühende Szenetreffs verwandelt haben. Beispiel: Telliskivi, eine Privatinitiative von Visionären. Dort, wo die Sowjets nahe der Bahnstrecke nach Sankt Petersburg einst Reparaturen für Loks betrieben, hat sich ein Kreativzentrum entwickelt - mit Ökoläden und Designershops, Co-Working-Bereichen, Kneipen, Restaurants, Kino, Konzerten, Flohmärkten und Dutzenden Veranstaltungen pro Monat.
Visite im aufgewerteten Hafenviertel Wie aus Altem Neues wird, sieht man im Viertel Noblessner. Hier hat sich Estlands Hauptstadt jüngst zur Seeseite hin geöffnet, mit luxuriösen Apartmentblocks und der Neunutzung überkommener Werftanlagen, in denen U-Boote gebaut wurden.
Seit rund einem Jahr sind in aufbereiteter Altarchitektur das Kunstausstellungszentrum Kai und das Erlebnismuseum Proto untergebracht, wo man sich auf einem »Schwebenden Fahrrad« oder auf einer »Flugmaschine« in Sphären virtueller Realität bewegt.
Auf dem Boden der Tatsachen hält den Besucher der historische Wasserflugzeughangar, der unter seinen Stahlbetonkuppeln das Estnische Meeresmuseum beherbergt. Und dies derart vorbildlich modern, als wäre Tallinn dem Rest der Welt um Längen voraus.
Kulinarische Kühnheit Der stete Wandel schürt die Erwartungshaltung, treibt die Ansprüche in die Höhe: Wo öffnen die brandaktuellsten Adressen, wo bewegt man sich auch kulinarisch am Puls der Zeit?
Darauf spekuliert einer wie Küchenchef Tauno Tamm, 27, der im Stadtteil Noblessner auf Estlands Nouvelle Cuisine setzt. Und wie definiert er die? »Wir sind gerade dabei, estnisches Essen wiederzuentdecken - das, was aus dem Meer, dem Wald oder von der lokalen Farm kommt. Und wir als Chefs heben das einfach auf die nächste Stufe, ohne dass unser Ego mit uns durchgeht.« Esten wie Tamm lieben Roggenbrot, Pilze, Beeren und all das, was »uns die harten Lebensbedingungen gelernt haben einzulegen«, so der Chef.
Ein Alter, eine Dicke und ein Langer Es gibt aber auch das andere, das traditionelle Tallinn mit dem, was Jaan-Laur Tähepold »hanseatische Architektur« nennt.
Der Guide bringt ein Trio ins Spiel: den alten Thomas, die dicke Margarethe und den langen Hermann. Der alte Thomas ist die Wetterfahnenfigur auf der Spitze des Rathauses, die dicke Margarethe ein Wehrturm, der lange Hermann der hoch aufsteigende Turm des Schlosses, wo allmorgendlich die Fahne Estlands gehisst wird.
Auf der Sightseeing-Liste dürfen ebenso wenig die russisch-orthodoxe Kathedrale Alexander Newski und die Nikolaikirche fehlen, deren heilige Hallen zum Kunstmuseum umfunktioniert worden sind.
Knoblaucheis und Marzipan gegen Herzschmerz An vielen Stellen ist Tallinn extravagant: bunte Freiluftliegen unterhalb der Nikolaikirche, auf dem Gehsteig Pflanzendekors in Gummistiefeln, Knoblaucheis in einem Restaurant.
Menschen, die das historische Tallinn mit Leben füllen, sind zum Beispiel Georg Bogatkin und Jelena Kapitonova. Bogatkin, 65, ist Keramikmeister und führt ein Kombinat aus Café und Studio. Kapitonova steht auf dem Rathausplatz in einer der ältesten Apotheken Europas, wo sie als Pharmazeutische Assistentin arbeitet. Vom Verkaufsraum aus führt der Zugang ins Museum, wo sie bei der Erklärung heilkundlicher Exponate von einst hilft. In Öl eingelegte Regenwürmer halfen angeblich gegen Bauchschmerzen. »Und Marzipan gegen Herzschmerz.«
Reisezeit: Frühling bis Herbst.
Anreise: Vor der Corona-Pandemie gab es Nonstop-Verbindungen etwa von Frankfurt nach Tallinn, Flugzeit knapp zwei Stunden.
Geld: In Estland wird mit dem Euro gezahlt.
Informationen: Fremdenverkehrsamt Estland, Kleine Reichenstraße 6, 20457 Hamburg (www.visitestonia.com).
(30.07.2020, dpa)
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