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Am Flughafen Vanguardia in Villavicencio (Kolumbien) kann man noch mit einer Douglas DC-3 (Baujahr 1942) der Fluggesellschaft Air Columbia abheben
Foto: ... Kolumbien Rosinenbomber als Linienflugzeug
Sie fliegen noch. Die legendären Rosinenbomber, die vor fast 70 Jahren West-Berlin während der sowjetischen Blockade versorgt hatten, landen heute in abgelegenen Dörfern Kolumbiens.
Die 20 Passagiere sitzen mit dem Rücken zum Fenster. Die blank polierte, silberfarbene DC-3 von Air Colombia ist Baujahr 1942. Die zwei Propeller springen an. Der Oldtimer hebt kräftig brummend um 9:00 Uhr ab in Villavicencio.
Das Zentrum der DC-3-Flotte mit rund zwölf intakten Veteranen liegt gut 120 Kilometer südöstlich von Kolumbiens Hauptstadt Bogotá. Die Militärvarianten wurden als Rosinenbomber weltberühmt, die DC-3-Typen der Douglas Aircraft Company wurden nur zwischen 1935 und 1945 produziert. Sie sind unverwüstlich, auch anno 2017.
Im hinteren Teil piept und tschilpt es kräftig. Etwa 400 Küken in gestapelten Kartons mit Luftlöchern fliegen mit. Die Passagiere, viele Ureinwohner, gucken durch dicke Riemen, die Kisten und Säcke sichern, auf ihre Nachbarn gegenüber.
Joaquin Sanclemente ist ein versierter Pilot. Er habe allein im DC-3-Cockpit über 10.000 Flugstunden absolviert, erzählt er später. Und die Sicherheit der alten Kisten? »Die Inspektions-Intervalle sind kurz, die Checks enorm gründlich«, betont der Comandante.
Er weiß auch Etliches über die Blockade West-Berlins durch die kommunistische Sowjetunion und die Luftbrücke der westlichen Alliierten USA, Großbritannien, Frankreich. Die versorgten von Juni 1948 bis September 1949 mit DC-3-Militärversionen erfolgreich die Bewohner West-Berlins mit allem zum Leben Notwendigen.
Sanclemente hat auch die Übersetzungen für »Rosinenbomber« parat, nämlich »Candy bomber« und »Raisin bomber«. Luftwaffenpiloten warfen damals für Kinder kleine Fallschirme mit Süßigkeiten ab und hatten auch Trockenfrüchte an Bord. Viele der Flüge führten unter anderem von Frankfurt (Main), Celle in Niedersachsen und Hamburg durch die Luftkorridore der West-Alliierten auf den Flughafen Berlin-Tempelhof und auf den kleineren in Berlin-Staaken.
Der Pilot von Air Colombia spricht gutes Englisch, was gewiss nicht selbstverständlich für DC-3-Crews in Kolumbien ist. Auf Charterflügen hatte er in den alten Propellermaschinen auch schon teure Rennpferde sowie in Teile zerlegte Lastwagen und Traktoren an Bord.
Wie vor rund 70 Jahren transportieren die Oldies heute Lebensmittel, Baustoffe und Medikamente, in Notfällen auch Schwerkranke. Die DC-3 ist robust, wendig und leicht zu reparieren. Sie landet in Kolumbien in Regionen, zu denen es keine Straßen gibt, nur Steppe, Busch, Dschungel sowie entlegene Dörfer mit Ureinwohnern.
Villavo, so der Kurzname für Villavicencio, ist das Tor zu Los Llanos mit Savanne, Viehherden, Cowboys, Haciendas. Doch ein echter DC-3-Fan interessiert sich dafür erst in zweiter Linie. Fast alle Passagiere sind angeschnallt. Sicherheitshinweise durch Flugbegleiter und Gurtkontrollen gibt es nicht. Der einzige Mitarbeiter im gemeinsamen Passagier- und Gepäckraum ist um die 50, sehr freundlich, hilft Müttern und Kindern beim Aussteigen und auch beim Entladen der Küken.
Die Maschine landet kurz in Cumaribo, einer Siedlung in der Einsamkeit. Das Flugfeld hat eine asphaltierte Bahn und eine Holzbaracke. Die DC-3 könnte auch auf einer Gras- oder Sandpiste landen. Die Crew prüft den Treibstofftank manuell. Die Anzeige im Cockpit funktioniert. »Vertrauen ist gut, Kontrolle besser«, sagt der Copilot. Die nächste Landung ist Inirida mit einem richtigen Flughafen. Die DC-3 parkt zwischen einer Militärmaschine und einem Ambulanzflugzeug.
Um 15:00 Uhr, nach sechs Stunden Reisezeit und – für DC-3-Fans willkommenen Umwegen – landet der Silbervogel in Barranco Minas. Bilanz: drei Starts, drei Landungen, knapp 800 DC-3-Flugkilometer für gut 110 Euro. Für manche Einheimische ist das ein Monatslohn. Nur 30 Minuten später landet eine andere DC-3 der Airline Laser Aéreo.
Stephan Pointl empfiehlt Reisenden den 4.000-Seelen-Ort Barranco Minas als ursprüngliches Kolumbien-Erlebnis. Der Bayer arbeitet in Bogotá für das Reisebüro Kontour Travel. Die Mitarbeiter dort sind DC-3-Fans. Sein Chef Georg Rubin, ein Schweizer, sagt: »Die Flüge sind ein unvergessliches Abenteuer, bisher international fast unbekannt.«
Soldaten kontrollieren in Barranco Minas am Airport freundlich und posieren für Fotos. Ein Gast aus den USA überragt mit seinen etwa 1,75 Meter viele Einheimische fast um Haupteslänge. Die Indígena-Völker der Region haben ihre eigenen Sprachen, lernen Spanisch oft erst in der Schule.
Fischfang, ein bisschen Agrar- und Gartenbau, Fluss-Hafen, Holz- und Steinhäuser, Restaurants mit leckerem Fisch, katholische Kirche, zwei Schulen, eine kleine Disco. Das bietet das Dorf am Guaviare-Fluss.
Beim Rückflug fehlt das Piepen der Küken. Dafür riecht es nach Fisch. Der gekühlte Fang, in Säcke verstaut, muss schnell zu den Käufern in die Stadt. Drei junge Männer öffnen ihre mitgebrachten Bierbüchsen. Prost, auf die unverwüstlichen Rosinenbomber! Vielleicht bekommen sie im September göttlichen Segen – dann landet Papst Franziskus in Villavicencio und hält dort eine Messe ab.
(22.08.2017, dpa)
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