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Einmal im Jahr, beim Affenfest, dürfen die Makaken sich so richtig vollfressen. Während die Tiere ein Urlaubermagnet sind, haben die Bewohner zu ihnen ein gespaltenes Verhältnis
Foto: Narong Sangnak Affen in Thailand Touristenmagnete oder Plagegeister? Makaken, wohin man blickt: In Lopburi in Thailand haben die Affen scheinbar das Kommando. Touristen lieben die pelzigen Tierchen mit ihren Kulleraugen. Doch wer länger in der Stadt lebt, wird oft rasch eines Besseren belehrt.
Sie hängen von Telefonleitungen, klauen die Ladung von fahrenden Transportern, brechen in Läden ein und nehmen alles mit, was sich ihre kleinen Pfoten krallen können: Die Affen von Lopburi sind nicht unbedingt vorbildliche Mitbürger. Für die menschlichen Bewohner sind die etwa 3000 Langschwanzmakaken Fluch und Segen zugleich.
Die auch Javaneraffen genannten Tiere sind die wichtigste Touristenattraktion von Lopburi und oft der einzige Grund, die thailändische Stadt mit ihrer kleinen Tempelruine zu besuchen. Der Khmer-Tempel Prang Sam Yot aus dem 13. Jahrhundert ist mittlerweile fast nur noch als Affentempel bekannt, denn dort tummeln sich besonders viele Makaken. Die verspielt wirkenden Tiere verbreiten gute Laune unter den Besuchern.
Doch die Tiere sind auch eine Plage und vermehren sich ungebremst. Vor allem Ladenbesitzer und Anwohner in der Nähe des Tempels leiden: Hotelbesitzer Itiphat Tantipati verscheucht Affen mit einem Bambusstock von den Autos seiner Gäste. »Das Problem scheint größer zu werden, denn die Affen breiten sich immer weiter aus«, sagt der 40-Jährige. »Sie beschädigen das Gebäude, reißen Drähte raus, schlagen Fenster ein und reißen Plastikteile von den Autos.«
Um den Tempel stehen verlassene Gebäude, die Fenster in den oberen Stockwerken sind verbarrikadiert. Die Bewohner seien verschwunden, sagt Sorapong Wongdeen. Auch wegen der Affen. »Man konnte hier nichts verkaufen, nicht mal sein Auto parken.« Einige Geschäfte mussten wegen der Affenplage schließen, sagt auch Itiphat und zeigt auf ein Haus. Es war ein Einkaufszentrum, doch die neugierigen Affen vertrieben die Kunden, weil sie sich an allen Einkaufstüten zu schaffen machten. »Es steht seit zehn Jahren leer. Kein Investor will es.« Die Stadtregierung sollte etwas gegen die Affeninvasion unternehmen, fordern die Bewohner.
Einige haben einen Zwölf-Volt-Elektrozaun an den oberen Stockwerken ihrer Häuser installiert, um die Affen von ihren Dächern und Verandas fernzuhalten. Immer wieder ist ein Knall zu hören. Der für die Affen nicht tödliche Stromschlag ist manchmal genug, um sie zu vertreiben.
Suthip Tantiwong hingegen hat die Affen als Teil ihres täglichen Lebens akzeptiert. Sie spiele mit den Tieren, sagt die 60 Jahre alte Inhaberin eines kleinen Ladens für Autoteile. Noch während sie spricht, kommt ein kleines Äffchen in den Laden und klettert auf eine Vitrine. Suthip schüttelt seine Pfote und gibt ihm Süßigkeiten. Sekunden später ist der Laden voll mit Affen, alle in Erwartung einer süßen Mahlzeit. Suthip zückt eine Spielzeugpistole, mit dem lauten Knall fliehen die Tiere kreischend.
Die Tourismusbehörde fordert Besucher auf, Wertsachen und Kameras sicher zu verwahren. »Die Affen von Lopburi sind dafür bekannt, alles zu stehlen, was sie in die Hände bekommen.« Das sei richtig, sagt der Verkehrspolizist Sunit Krataipo. »Aber sie beißen nicht, solange sie nicht wütend sind.« Schwere Bissverletzungen oder Kratzer seien selten. Affen sind allerdings Träger von Tollwut oder anderen Krankheiten, auch Kratzer können daher böse enden.
Einmal im Jahr, am letzten Wochenende im November, schließen die Bewohner einen Waffenstillstand mit ihren pelzigen Mitbewohnern. Bei einem Affenfest spendiert die Stadt den Makaken ein All-you-can-eat-Buffet.
Mit dem Fest wird dem Affengott gehuldigt - die Tiere gelten als Nachfahren des Hindu-Gottes Hanuman - und die Bewohner bedanken sich bei ihnen für die vielen Touristen. Berge von kunstvoll angerichtetem Obst, Gemüse und Süßigkeiten türmen sich in den Straßen, die Affen können sich die Bäuche vollschlagen.
Innerhalb kürzester Zeit sieht es dann so aus, als hätte eine Horde wilder Affen die Straßen überrannt. Eine Band spielt traditionelle Musik, Tänzer treten auf, glückliche Touristen fotografieren die fressenden Tiere. Für ein paar Stunden ist die Welt für Mensch und Affe in Ordnung.
(03.12.2014, dpa)
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