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An der Südostküste von Koh Chang in Thailand liegt der malerische Long Beach.
Foto: Volker Klinkmüller LONG BEACH - Koh Chang – Thailand »The Beach« lässt grüßen
Wer hätte das gedacht…? Als zweitgrößte Insel Thailands boomt Koh Chang bereits seit 20 Jahren und entwickelt sich immer mehr zum Reiseziel für Pauschaltouristen. Doch auf der abgelegenen »Rückseite« im Südosten, findet sich mit dem Long Beach eine nostalgische Enklave.
Der rund 400 Meter lange Long Beach und vor allem die ihn prägende »Tree House Lodge« brauchen den Vergleich mit einem Globetrotter-Spot, wie er in dem Streifen »The Beach« mit Leonardo di Caprio verfilmt worden ist, nicht zu scheuen. Allein schon die Anreise ist ein Abenteuer, geht es doch im letzten Abschnitt der rund 32 Kilometer langen Strecke vom Fähranleger über eine urige Piste durch die Berge, steil hinauf und hinab. Diese Schneise wurde erst vor wenigen Jahren durch den tiefen Dschungel geschlagen – teilweise als Schotterpiste und in der Regenzeit zuweilen verschüttet oder so tief zerfurcht, dass sie selbst für strapazierfähige Pick-ups unpassierbar wird. Unterwegs eröffnen sich immer wieder atemberaubende Ausblicke auf die vorgelagerten Inseln, die Idylle, Einsamkeit und authentische Hängematten-Atmosphäre verheißen. Und genau das ist es auch, wonach sich die Besucher der abgelegenen Ostküste sehnen – handelt es sich doch um die gleiche freakige Travellerschar, die einst schon den Lonely Beach an der Westküste für sich entdeckt hatte. Nicht wenige kommen aus Nostalgie hierher und können teilweise sogar auf den Brettern von einst relaxen. Denn während die Nürnbergerin Pamela – Gründerin der legendären »Tree House Lodge « am Lonely Beach – nach Koh Phangan übersiedelte, ist ihr thailändischer Ehemann Paradon mit den Hütten von einst zum Long Beach umgezogen. Naturnah fügen sich diese nun hier in das üppig wuchernde Strandgrün bzw. den dahinter ansteigenden Dschungelhang ein. Der flach ins Meer führende Sandstrand lockt zu unbeschwertem Badevergnügen. Zur Erkundung der Gegend lassen sich am »Dead End«, wo das Ende der Straße von einem einfachen Laden-Restaurant markiert wird, Kajaks leihen (€ 7,50 pro Tag). Damit kann man beispielsweise zur vorgelagerten Insel Koh Ngam hinüber paddeln, deren Silhouette an Koh Phi Phi erinnert: Eine palmenbewachsene Sandbank verbindet zwei Inselflügel zu einer Doppelinsel – allerdings ist diese weitaus idyllischer als ihre berühmte Schwester im Süden... Das kleine Eiland ist in Privatbesitz und lockt mit einer netten Bungalowanlage.
{tab=Die passende Unterkunft finden|green} Aufgrund der schlechten telefonischen Erreichbarkeit ist es mit Reservierungen teilweise schwierig – doch auch ohne findet man stets eine Bleibe.
Einfach: Die größte und populärste Unterkunft, die »Tree House Lodge« (Tel. 0066-81- 8478215), hat 40 Zimmer (€ 3,50–7,50) in einfachen, strohgedeckten Stelzenhütten ohne Ventilatoren, mit Gemeinschaftsbädern und Generatorenstrom von 18 bis 2 Uhr.
Kaum bekannt ist das nur einen Steinwurf entfernte, ebenfalls im Dschungelhang verborgene »Long Beach Resort« (Tel. 0066-87- 9794572, ) mit vier spartanischen Bambus-Bungalows für € 3,50, Strom von 18 bis 24 Uhr sowie dem einzigen Internet-Empfang der Region. Im April/Mai 2012 soll ein zweistöckiger Hotelflügel mit 12 schönen, geräumigen AC-Zimmern (€ 36,50) und dem besten Meerblick der Ostküste eröffnet werden.
Gehoben: Noch ein Geheimtipp ist das bisher nur von Bangkok-Thais besuchte »A-Na-Lay Resort« auf Koh Ngam (Tel. 0066-89-1415270, www.analaykohngam.com ) mit 22 Zimmern (mit AC € 36,50, € 49 und € 61, mit Fan € 17). Die zweistöckigen Häuser haben eine ungewöhnliche Architektur und schöne Schlafzimmer im Obergeschoss (Strom 18–24 Uhr).
{tab=So kommen Sie hin|green} Flug von Bangkok zum Festlands-Flughafen bei Trat mit Bangkok Airways (1 Std., 3 x tgl., je nach Saison € 49–68 oneway). Von dort geht’s per Taxi oder Minibus (€ 5–7,50) zum Anleger der Center Point Ferry in Laem Ngop. Alternativ kommt man mit großen Linienbussen (ca. 5–6 Stunden) nach Trat (€ 6, aus der Khao Sarn Road inkl. Fährticket € 8,50). Von Trat fahren Sammeltaxen (30 Min., € 1,20) zum Anleger. Nach der Fährpassage (€ 3 return) bzw. telefonischer Anmeldung warten am Pier auf Koh Chang die Pick-up-Taxis der Hotels. Das »A-Na-Lay Resort« holt seine Gäste für € 8,50 vom eigenen Festlandspier ab.
HOME » TRAUMSTRäNDE ENTDECKEN » TRAUMSTRAND: ASIEN » THAILAND: KOH CHANG - LONG BEACH Ganz im Norden der USA
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