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Koh Jum wurde erst 2009 ans Stromnetz angeschlossen, am Luboa Beach herrscht noch echte Hüttenromantik.
Foto: Roger Brooke Luboa Beach - Koh Jum Wie Koh Samui Anfang der Achtziger Jahre
Nur einer kleinen Zahl von Thailand-Fans ist der Name Koh Jum geläufig, eine Insel, die erst seit zwei Jahren ans Stromnetz angeschlossen ist. Ganz im Norden liegt der urige Luboa Beach, ein echter Geheimtipp für alle, die den guten, alten Travellerzeiten hinterher trauern.
Obwohl Koh Jum Ende 2009 an das Stromnetz vom Festland angeschlossen wurde, scheint es hier mit der Kerzen- und Hängematten-Romantik noch längst nicht vorbei. Immerhin hat es dieses Eiland ja auch geschafft, trotz der unmittelbaren Nähe zu den beliebten, jeweils nur um die 25 Kilometer entfernten Urlaubszielen Krabi, Koh Lanta und Koh Phi Phi eine Robinsoninsel zu bleiben. Besonders viel ursprüngliche Idylle findet sich im Norden des zwölf Kilometer langen Eilands, wo der Luboa oder North Beach zum Relaxen lockt. Als goldgelbes, eher grobkörniges Sandband schmiegt er sich in einer leichten Biegung über 400 Meter an der Inselküste entlang, tropische Baumriesen spenden Schatten. Die sechs kleinen, sich in dichter Vegetation versteckenden Bungalowanlagen sind nicht nur von der Meeresseite, sondern auch über die staubige Inselpiste zu erreichen, wobei die letzten Meter allerdings zu Fuß zurückgelegt werden müssen. Die hier liegenden Resorts haben sich ihren originären Charakter bewahren können, einige sogar bewusst die Stromversorgung mit Generatoren beibehalten. Wer hier absteigt, ist mit einfachem Standard zufrieden und hat sich auf jeden Fall genügend Lesestoff mitgebracht, um ausgiebig in den zahlreich gespannten Hängematten zu baumeln. Zwischendurch sucht man sich im warmen, flachen Wasser felsenfreie Stellen zum Baden. Auf Strand-Streifzügen wird schnell klar, warum dieses Eiland auch Koh Phu – Insel der Krabben – genannt wird: Denn ob sie flink über den Sand huschen oder auf Felsen in der Brandung herumklettern – Krabben gibt es hier tatsächlich mehr als reichlich. Wer ein größeres Abenteuer sucht, kann versuchen, den gleich hinter dem Strand ansteigenden, 422 Meter hohen Berg Phu zu besteigen (ausreichend Wasser und am besten einen Einheimischen mitnehmen). Spätestens zum Sonnenuntergang trifft man sich dann wieder am Luboa-Strand, wo der in den Horizont sinkende Feuerball so manches romantische Lagerfeuer zu entzünden scheint.
{tab=Die passende Unterkunft finden|green} Da die Ankömmlinge von den Longtails der Resorts auf hoher See abgeholt werden, sollte man sich vorher die Unterkunft aussuchen. Unter www.kohjumonline.com lassen sich Infos und Bilder über die fünf am Luboa Beach liegenden Bungalowanlagen sowie 17 weitere Unterkünfte der Insel abrufen (in der Hochsaison rechtzeitig reservieren!).
Am Luboa-Strand gibt es nur kleine, zweckmäßig eingerichtete Bungalowsresorts. Die neun originellen Häuschen des »Luboahut« in der Mitte des Strandes wurden an den bewaldeten Hang hinter dem Beach gebaut und verbreiten echtes Robinson-Flair. Es gibt Bungalows verschiedener Preisklassen von € 9–22,50 und einen Familienbungalow mit 2 Doppelbetten für € 30 (Tel. 0066-81-3889241). Der Strom wird vom Generator geliefert. Am Nordende des Luboa-Strands liegt das »Bonhomie Beach Cottage« (Tel. 0066-86-560- 9977, www.bonhomiebeach.com ). Das mit Strom vom Festland versorgte Resort hat zehn Bungalows (Hochsaison € 17,50–22,50) unterschiedlicher Architektur,die sich harmonisch in das dichte Grün des Ufers einfügen. In der Nebensaison werden bis zu 50 Prozent Rabatt gewährt.
{tab=So kommen Sie hin|green} Erstes Ziel ist Krabi. Am schnellsten geht’s dorthin von Bangkok per Flugzeug – z. B. mit Air Asia (tgl. um 10:30, 14:15 und 18:10 Uhr, ca. 80 Min., € 88–125 return). Alternative ist der Nachtbus (damit spart man ggf. eine Hotelnacht in Bangkok), entweder in der Backpacker- bzw. Minibusvariante aus dem Travellerviertel Khao Sarn Road (meist ab 18 Uhr, € 15–20) oder mit dem 24-sitzigen VIP-Bus vom Southern Bus Terminal (19 Uhr, 11 Std., € 23). In Krabi geht’s auf die Fähre nach Koh Lanta (tgl. 11 Uhr, 1,5–2 Std., € 10–13), von der die Passagiere nach Koh Jum (an zwei Treffpunkten rund 300 Meter vom Strand) in Longtails umsteigen, um zu den Resorts zu gelangen. Länger, aber preiswerter und die einzige Verbindung in der Regenzeit (April/Mai bis Oktober) ist die Überfahrt vom Fährhafen Laem Kruat (ca. 40 Kilometer südlich vom Flughafen). Von hier setzen die Linienboote (€ 1,50–2, ca. 45 Minuten) zu den Insel-Dörfern Ban Phu oder Ban Jum über.
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