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Blick auf den Tsambíka Beach an der Ostküste von Rhódos
Blick auf den Tsambíka Beach an der Ostküste von Rhódos RHÓDOS Die ganze Schönheit der Roseninsel erleben Spitzt man am Airport Rhódos die Lauscher, scheint es gefühlt jeden zweiten Besucher nach Faliráki zu ziehen, dem »Ballermann « der größten Insel im Dodekanes in der südöstlichen Ägäis. Die für Griechenland eher untypischen Betonburgen hinter dem gräulichen Sandstrand und dem Meer aus Liegen scheinen viele nicht weiter zu stören - Spaß scheint es auch in Faliráki zu machen und das ist ja das Wichtigste im Urlaub.
Uns aber zieht es in die schönsten Ecken der Roseninsel. Aus diesem Grund bleiben wir erst einmal ein paar Nächte in Rhódos-Stadt, der schönen Inselhauptstadt mit mittelalterlicher Altstadt, die zum UNESCO-Weltkulturerbe zählt. Beim Flanieren auf dem zentralen Hippokrates-Platz und den angrenzenden Gassen fühlt man sich wie in einem Freilichtmuseum.
Auch wenn an den bronzenen Koloss von Rhodos, der zu den sieben Weltwundern zählte und schon lange vor Christi Geburt nach einem Erdbeben in sich zusammenfiel, heute nur noch die Plastikkopien in den Souvenirshops erinnern. Zum Baden geht man in Rhódos-Stadt an den Aktí Kanári Beach im Westen der Stadt.
Doch an Stränden hat die Insel außerhalb von Rhódos-Stadt Besseres zu bieten. Der schöne Tsambíka Beach mit seinen Tavernen und Kantinas liegt eine halbe Autostunde südlich. Nach Unterkünften sucht man dort aber vergeblich. Wer diesen Traumstrand gern in der Nähe weiß, schlägt sein Lager am besten am 20 Autominuten entfernten Ladikó Beach in direkter Nachbarschaft der berühmten Antony-Quinn-Bucht auf, wo einst Szenen für den Hollywood-Film »Die Kanonen von Navarone« gedreht wurde, es aber im Hochsommer auch ziemlich voll werden kann.
35 Kilometer weiter südlich liegt das malerische Líndos, außerhalb der Saison der perfekte Ort für den romantischen Badeurlaub. Wie an einer Krempe reihen sich die weißen Würfelhäuser des Dorfes über der türkisschimmernden Ägäis, darüber thront eine antike Akropolis. Beim Bummel durch die verwinkelten Gassen stößt man auf kleine Tavernen, urige Bars, blühende Innenhöfe, allerlei Souvenirshops und kleine Kirchen. Zu Füßen des Dorfes breitet sich der herrliche Líndos Beach aus. Einzigartigkeit zeichnet den nahegelegenen Strand von Ágios-Pávlos aus: Die kreisrunde, auch Saint Paul’s Bay genannte Bucht ist nur durch eine schmale Felsschleuse mit dem offenen Meer verbunden. Je weiter man nach Süden kommt, desto feinsandiger und breiter werden die Strände. Am traumhaften Prasonísi Beach weht allerdings zumeist eine steife Brise, was den Strand zu einem Dorado der Surfer und Kiter macht.
Nun aber genug der Strände: Auf Rhódos ist der Russische Bär heimisch. Das ist nicht etwa ein eingeschlepptes Raubtier aus dem fernen Sibirien, sondern eine heimische Schmetterlingsart, die von Juli bis Mitte September in Schwärmen auftritt. Aber nur in den harzigen Amber-Bäumen im Butterfly Valley, eine halbe Stunde westlich vom Badeort Faliráki. Vom Parkplatz führt ein schöner Waldweg entlang RHÓDOS eines kleinen Bachs. Wer Lust hat auf eine Flasche Rhódos-Wein, fährt ins Weindorf Émbona zu Füßen des 1.215 Meter hohen Inselbergs Atavyros. Auf dem Weingut Emerykönnen zwischen 10 und 16:30 Uhr gratis weiße und rote Weine verkostet werden (Flasche Euro 10-12).
Hotel-Tipps Rhódos-Stadt: Im ruhigeren Teil der Altstadt nahe der Hamsa-Bei-Moschee liegt das zauberhafte »Zacosta Villa Hotel« mit schönen Suiten, stilvollen Zimmerunikaten und Holzmöbeln, Innenhof und gut sortiertem Weinkeller in altem Gemäuer (0030-22410-33450, www.zacosta.com, EZ/DZ ab Euro 113 ÜF).
Ladikó: Auf einem Hügel oberhalb der Anthony-Quinn-Bucht liegt das »Atalanti Boutique Hotel« , ein weiteres aus der Reihe der weißen Loungehotels, die in Griechenland in Mode gekommen sind (0030-22410-85684, www.hotelatalanti.gr, EZ/DZ ab Euro 48/53 ÜF).
Líndos: Das »Lindos Seaside Suite« hat sehr geschmackvolle helle Apartments in ruhiger Lage mit schönem Ausblick, nur 100 Meter vom Strand entfernt (www.lindos-seaside-suite.hotels-in-rhodes-greece.com, Apt. ab Euro 120).
Pauschal: Die »Del Mar Studios« überzeugen durch die gute Lage zwischen Saint Paul’s Bay und dem Ort Líndos (jeweils rund 500 m entfernt). Schöne helle Studios und Apartments. 1 Wo ab Euro 582 inkl. Flug, TUI.
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