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In den Galerien findet sich auch das ein oder andere Souvenir für Zuhause.
Foto: Philipp Laage Eiland ohne Autos Kolonialinsel Gorée ist Dakars Ruhepol
Sie liegt etwa drei Kilometer vor der westafrikanischen Küste: Die Ile de Gorée ist Symbol für den Sklavenhandel und die Kolonialgeschichte des Senegal.
Viele Reisende schätzen das Eiland als idyllischen Ruhepol Dakars, als Ausstieg für einen Tag. Dass der Alltag im Senegal angenehm gedrosselt abläuft, ist eine leicht romantisch verklärte Beobachtung. In der Hauptstadt Dakar ist der Verkehr laut und wüst, es herrscht allgemeine Geschäftigkeit. Drei Kilometer vor der Küste jedoch liegt eine Insel, auf der die Hektik der Millionen-Metropole in weite Ferne rückt: Gorée, ein kleines Eiland mit großem Symbolwert.
Bunte Kolonialhäuschen, Baobab-Bäume und Palmen, dafür keine Autos - die Idylle der Insel steht im Kontrast zu ihrer düsteren Geschichte. Lange galt Gorée als Sklaveninsel, über die jedes Jahr viele Tausend Menschen aus ganz Afrika als Arbeiter nach Nordamerika verschifft worden sein sollen. Historiker haben die Bedeutung der Insel für den Sklavenhandel inzwischen stark relativiert, doch der Mythos hat wenig von seiner Anziehungskraft eingebüßt.
Im Maison des Esclaves, dem »Sklavenhaus«, schildert der Künstler Moustafah den Leidensweg seiner Vorfahren: »Hier wurden die Kinder eingesperrt«, sagt er und zeigt auf einen dunklen Raum im Erdgeschoss. Der selbst ernannte Touristenführer, der bei 35 Grad eine Rastafari-Wollmütze trägt, zeigt den Besuchern die »Pforte ohne Wiederkehr«. Sie führt hinaus zur Felsküste. Dass hier Boote angelegt haben und Sklaven verschifft wurden, ist unwahrscheinlich.
Unesco-Weltkulturerbe ist die Ile de Gorée deshalb, weil der Besucher hier quasi durch die Jahrhunderte der westafrikanischen Kolonialgeschichte spaziert. Im Jahr 1444 ließen sich die Portugiesen auf der Insel nieder, 1617 wurde sie an die Niederländer verkauft, und später scharmützelten England und Frankreich um das Eiland. Insgesamt 17 Mal wechselte Gorée den Besitzer. Viele historische Gebäude sind noch erhalten und wurden restauriert.
Zwischen den roten und gelben Fassaden steht die Hitze, Ziegen blöken in den heißen Mittag. Moustafah schwadroniert über die rosa getünchte Kirche und den als Palme getarnten Funkmast, der Gorée überragt. Etwa einen Kilometer ist die Insel lang. Ein Tagesausflug reicht aus, übernachten können Reisende hier aber auch, zum Beispiel bei einem der vielen Künstler.
Kunststudent Gaoussou arbeitet gerade in seiner Galerie. »Gelber Sand aus Saint Louis, oranger aus Mali, dunkelbrauner aus Mauretanien, grüner aus dem Saloum-Delta« - das seien die Werkstoffe für sein Bild, erklärt der 24-Jährige. Etwas geheimnisvoll streut er die feinen Körner auf eine Holzplatte. Wer senegalesisches Kunsthandwerk sucht, wird auf Gorée glücklich.
Gleich nebenan stehen zwei Kanonengeschütze aus der Zeit des Ersten Weltkriegs. Die Steilküste Gorées habe 1961 als Kulisse für den oscarprämierten Film »Die Kanonen von Navarone« gedient, erzählt Moustafah. Vom höchsten Punkt der Insel zeigt er zur Skyline von Dakar und zieht einen recht ambitionierten Vergleich: »Mini-Manhattan«, sagt er und lacht.
Am Hafen kühlen sich Kinder in den Wellen ab. Das Restaurant serviert Dorade, Katzen huschen um die Stühle. Nach dem Essen gibt es Crêpe und Espresso. Die Fähre, die den Reisenden zurück ins hektische Dakar bringt, legt in gemütlicher Regelmäßigkeit ab. Sie folgt auf angenehme Weise dem Rhythmus der Insel.
Mehr Reiseinformationen auf der Seite des Honorarkonsulats Senegal
Reise- und Sicherheitshinweise des Auswärtigen Amtes
Anreise: Air France, Tap Air Portugal oder Iberia fliegen Dakar mit einem Zwischenstopp von Deutschland aus an.
Reisezeit: Zwischen November und Mai ist Trockenzeit.
Gesundheit: Impfungen gegen Tetanus, Diphtherie, Hepatitis A und Gelbfieber sowie Malaria-Prophylaxe werden empfohlen.
Geld: Ein Euro sind 655,98 CFA-Franc. Kreditkarten werden in gehobenen Hotels und Restaurants akzeptiert.
(17.08.2012, dpa, Philipp Laage)
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