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Keine Panik, wenn ein Gorilla mal lauter wird oder schnelle Bewegungen macht - die Ranger kennen die Tiere gut und wissen, wie man sich wann verhalten muss
Urlaubsattraktion in Afrika Was Reisende beim Gorilla-Tracking wissen müssen Die wichtigsten Fragen zum Gorilla-Tracking in Ruanda, Uganda und Kongo – und Antworten darauf. Was kostet es, eine Stunde lang Berggorillas beobachten zu dürfen? Wie nah darf ich an den Menschenaffen kommen? Und wo kann ich die Tiere überhaupt sehen?
Dian Fossey trug das Schicksal der letzten Berggorillas dieser Erde hinaus in die Welt. Die US-amerikanische Forscherin lebte viele Jahre im Bergwald bei den Tieren, bis sie 1985 unter ungeklärten Umständen in Ruanda ermordet wurde. Ihre Autobiografie »Gorillas im Nebel« war ein Bestseller und wurde von Hollywood verfilmt. Die einst akut vom Aussterben bedrohten Menschenaffen erhielten dann im Lauf der Jahre immer besseren Schutz.
Ungefähr 880 Berggorillas gibt es derzeit noch, der Bestand ist relativ stabil. Ein Besuch bei diesen bedrohten Tieren zählt zu den spektakulärsten und exklusivsten Reiseerlebnissen in Afrika – und kann so viel kosten wie ein kompletter zweiwöchiger Italien-Urlaub. Der Gorilla-Tourismus trägt heute aktiv zum Schutz der Tiere bei. Die wichtigsten Fragen und Antworten für interessierte Reisende:
Wo kann ich Berggorillas sehen? Berggorillas leben nur in zwei kleinen Gebieten in Ostafrika. Rund die Hälfte aller noch lebenden Tiere bewohnt die Regenwälder des Bwindi-Nationalparks in Uganda. Die anderen Gorillas finden sich in der Region der Virunga-Vulkane, die sich auf drei Länder verteilt: In Uganda liegt der Mgahinga-Gorilla-Nationalpark, in Ruanda der Vulkan-Nationalpark und im Kongo der Virunga-Nationalpark. Gorilla-Beobachtungen sind also in drei Ländern möglich.
Die meisten Reisenden besuchen Bwindi in Uganda und den Vulkan-Park in Ruanda. In den Reiseprogrammen deutscher und lokaler Veranstalter sind in der Regel diese beiden Schutzgebiete zu finden. In Bwindi leben dem Fremdenverkehrsamt Ugandas zufolge 13 Gorilla-Familien, die an Menschen gewöhnt sind, im Mgahinga-Park ist es eine Familie. Im Vulkan-Park sind laut Ruandas Behörden zehn Familien habitualisiert.
Auch im Virunga-Nationalpark im Kongo werden geführte Touren zu den Gorillas angeboten. Das machen allerdings nur sehr wenige Touristen. Für den instabilen Ostkongo, in dem Dutzende Milizen aktiv sind, hat das Auswärtige Amt eine Reisewarnung ausgesprochen – in solchen Regionen besteht generell »eine akute Gefahr für Leib und Leben«. Zwar gilt der Südteil des Virunga-Parks derzeit als sicher, doch allein das Wort Kongo schreckt die meisten Reisenden schon ab.
Was kostet das Gorilla-Tracking? Die Kosten unterscheiden sich deutlich: Ruanda hat den Preis für die Genehmigung – das Permit – auf 1.500 US-Dollar (1.260 Euro) verdoppelt. In Uganda beträgt er in der Hauptsaison 600 Dollar (505 Euro) und in der Nebensaison 450 Dollar (380 Euro). Im Kongo sind es 400 Dollar (335 Euro). Im Preis inbegriffen sind die Nationalpark-Eintritte und die Führung. Trinkgelder kommen obendrauf. In allen Schutzgebieten dürfen sich Touristen nur eine Stunde lang bei den Tieren aufhalten.
Wo und wie kann ich eine Gorilla-Tour buchen? Wer eine organisierte Reise gebucht hat, muss sich um nichts mehr kümmern - der Veranstalter übernimmt die Anmeldung und Beschaffung der Permits. Individualreisende wenden sich je nach Land an die Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA), an das Tourismusbüro des Rwanda Development Board oder an den Virunga-Nationalpark. Das ugandische Fremdenverkehrsamt rät zur Buchung über einen Veranstalter. Dann gebe es keine Probleme mit der Überweisung, und das Permit müsse nicht am Vortag der Tour persönlich abgeholt werden. Die Zahl der Permits ist begrenzt, eine möglichst frühe Buchung deshalb empfehlenswert.
Wie sind die Gorilla-Touren organisiert? Wer glaubt, die Touren glichen waghalsigen Expeditionen in unbekannte Wildnis, liegt falsch. »Diesen Zahn muss man vielen Leuten ziehen«, sagt Miguel Acenero Angel, Afrika-Produktmanager bei Wikinger Reisen aus Hagen. »Viele haben ein großes Abenteuer im Kopf.« Tatsächlich aber kennen die Ranger in der Regel den Standort der Tiere, und die Gorillas sind nicht komplett wild.
In Uganda darf täglich nur eine Gruppe von maximal acht Personen zu einer Gorilla-Familie aufbrechen, Start ist am frühen Morgen. Auch in Ruanda umfasst eine Gruppe höchstens acht Touristen. Die rigide Begrenzung der Besucherzahlen dient dem Schutz der Tiere. Bis zu sechs Stunden kann die Wanderung in Bwindi dauern, man muss also fit sein. In Ruanda liegt die Gehzeit laut Behörde bei 30 Minuten bis vier Stunden – pro Weg. Träger können auf Wunsch das Gepäck nehmen.
Welche Regeln muss ich während des Gorilla-Besuchs beachten? Wer erkältet ist, darf nicht mit – die Krankheitserreger können den Gorillas gefährlich werden. Außerdem müssen Touristen theoretisch stets sieben Meter Abstand zu den Tieren halten. In der Praxis wird das oft nicht eingehalten. »Die Ranger wollen den Gästen ein tolles Erlebnis bieten und hoffen auf ein gutes Trinkgeld«, weiß Angel. Oft können Besucher bis auf zwei oder drei Meter an die Tiere heran. »Manche Urlauber würden die Affen am liebsten streicheln« – was verboten ist.
Die Gorillas nehmen die menschliche Gesellschaft in der Regel mit erstaunlichem Gleichmut hin und sind ganz ruhig. Trotzdem sollte man in ihrer Nähe stets nur flüstern. Essen und Trinken sind nicht erlaubt. Auch Müll zu hinterlassen ist streng verboten. Die Gäste sollten stets den Anweisungen der Ranger folgen. Wird ein Gorilla doch mal etwas lauter, sollte man Ruhe bewahren. Fotografieren ist erlaubt, jedoch ohne Blitzlicht.
Was sollte ich zum Gorilla-Tracking einpacken? In den Tagesrucksack gehören warme und lange Kleidung sowie ein Regenschutz. Wander- oder Trekkingschuhe an den Füßen sind ratsam. Ins Gepäck gehören außerdem eine Wasserflasche und Snacks für unterwegs. Das für Touristen wichtigste Utensil dürfte allerdings die Kamera sein. Viele wollen sich die Gelegenheit nicht entgehen lassen und schöne Fotos von den Gorillas machen. Afrika-Experte Angel rät zu einem lichtstarken Teleobjektiv, denn im Wald ist es recht dunkel.
Was rät der Experte noch? In Ruanda kostet jede Minute bei den Gorillas rechnerisch 25 US-Dollar, in Uganda sind es immer noch 10 Dollar. Da wollen viele Touristen auf tolle Aufnahmen fürs Fotoalbum, Facebook und Instagram nicht verzichten. »Man sollte aber nicht bloß eine Stunde Fotos knipsen, sondern den Moment auch mal bewusst genießen«, rät Angel.
(26.01.2018, dpa)
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