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Had Sadet an der Ostküste von Koh Phangan in Thailand ist ein Paradies für junggebliebene Weltenbummler.
Foto: Oliver Kühn Had Sadet - Koh Phangan Traveller-Oase für Träumer und Nostalgiker
Had Sadet ist eines der letzten Backpacker-Nester Thailands. Der Strand liegt versteckt an der Ostküste von Koh Phangan und versprüht immer noch jene Hüttenromantik, die in den Siebzieger und Achtziger Jahren die junge Globetrotter-Gemeinde in Scharen anzog.
Wer mit dem Longtailtaxi in Had Sadet ankommt, dem eröffnet sich eine herrliche Bucht, von einem etwa 200 Meter langen, sichelförmigen, schneeweißen Palmenstrand begrenzt, den auf beiden Seiten Hügel mit riesigen Felsen umrahmen. Erst Mitte der 90er Jahre hat hier die erste Unterkunft namens »My Way« (60 Baht!) eröffnet, und heute schmiegen sich nicht einmal zehn einfache Bungalowanlagen an die Hänge und unter die Palmendächer. Die Traveller sitzen in den Restaurants, baden, lesen im Schatten, dösen in den Hängematten und spielen zwischendurch eine Runde Beachvolleyball oder Snooker im »Mai Pen Rai«. Strom kommt nach wie vor aus Generatoren. Statt an Partys erfreuen sich die Gäste am kühlen abendlichen Bier, Nachtruhe unter einem fantastischen Sternenhimmel und romantischen Sonnenaufgängen. Wer Natur liebt und sich selbst genug ist, ist hier richtig. Seinen Namen verdankt der Strand dem Fluss Sadet, der durch den urwüchsigen Dschungel fließt und am Südende des Strandes ins Meer mündet. Nach einer halben Trekkingstunde durch den Dschungel erreicht man den Than- Sadet-Wasserfall. In den von glatten Felsen umgebenen Süßwasserbecken aalen und sonnen sich die Besucher, von denen nicht wenige nachmittags mit Longtailbooten von den Nachbarständen kommen. Über eine klapprige Holzbrücke geht es in wenigen Minuten zum kleineren, ruhigeren Thong Reng Beach. Schiffsausflüge zum Schnorcheln kosten € 15.
{tab=Die passende Unterkunft finden|green}
Am besten einfach die Hüttenanlagen (alle rund € 10–15) vor Ort anschauen und sich die schönste aussuchen. Wer vorausbucht, kann meist von einem kostenlosen Pick-up am Hafen profitieren. Rund um die Full-Moon-Partys im nahen Had Rin lieber vorher reservieren (Termine 2012: 8.1., 8.2., 7.3., 6.4., 6.5., 4.6., 3.7., 4.8., 1.9., 30.9., 29.10., 28.11., 25.12., 28.12., 31.12.).
Zum Resort »Seaview Thansadet« gehören zehn Bambushütten mit Duschbad, Fan, Moskitonetz und Balkon, die sich auf der Anhöhe am Nordende des Strandes verteilen. Dank des fünfminütigen Aufstiegs vom Strand genießen die Gäste einen tollen Ausblick, auch von der Restaurantterrasse. Seit 2010 leitet der Münchner Patrick das Resort, seine Frau und deren Schwester sorgen für super Küche und alle drei für Wohlfühl-Atmosphäre (Tel. 0066-80- 6965304, www.seaview.thansadet.com , Hütte in der Hochsaison bis Ende April, Juli/August € 10). Einzige Luxusunterkunft ist die Designer-Öko-Villa »White Azure« 300 Meter vom Strand, mit vier Schlafzimmern geeignet für acht Personen. Um die Poolterrasse gruppieren sich die offene Küche, Wohn- und Esszimmer, ein Chill-out-Sala thront über dem eigenen Ministrand. Zwei Hausangestellte kümmern sich um die Gäste (Tel. 0066-851248311, www.phanganazure.com , Miete € 289/Nacht).
{tab=So kommen Sie hin|green} Über die Nachbarinsel Koh Samui: Flug von Bangkok mit Bangkok Airways oder Thai Airways nach Samui (return ab € 175). Mit dem Taxi zum Buddha-Pier fahren, nach Had Rin im Südosten von Koh Phangan übersetzen (um 10:30, 13 und 16 Uhr, € 4). Nach Sadet geht es mit einem Longtail, einem Jeeptaxi, oder man lässt sich abholen. Alternativ am Maenam-Pier um 12 Uhr das »Thong Nai Pan Longtail Taxiboat« nehmen, das in Sadet stoppt (€ 7,50). Die Billigflieger Air Asia und Nok Air steuern Suratthani an (ab € 30), ebenso die Busse, die aus Richtung Krabi und Südthailand kommen. Am Hafen Donsak die Fähre nach Thongsala nehmen (Bus-Schiff-Durchgangstickets, z. B. Krabi–Koh Phangan € 15). Sparfüchse kaufen das Bus-Fähren-Kombiticket ab Bangkok (inkl. Lomprayah- oder Seatran-Fähre von Chumphon via Koh Tao nach Thongsala, € 30). Ab Thongsala fährt ein Sammeltaxi (13 Uhr, € 4).
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