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Ein Hund im Praterviertel. Foto: Daniela David/dpa-tmn
Grätzl-Tour Jenseits von Prater und Hofburg: Das Wien der Einheimischen Berlin hat seine Kieze, Wien seine Grätzl: Hier spielt sich abseits von Stephansdom, Staatsoper und Schloss Schönbrunn das wahre Leben ab. Eine Entdeckungstour durch fünf Bezirke.
Der Stephansdom, das Schloss Belvedere, das Kunstmuseum Albertina oder das Museumsquartier - alles weltbekannte Sehenswürdigkeiten, die für Wien stehen. Wer zum ersten Mal in die Hauptstadt Österreichs reist, wird sie auf dem Zettel haben.
Und dann? Was tun, wenn man das klassische Sightseeing hinter sich hat? Etwas mehr davon mitbekommen möchte, was die Dynamik der Stadt ausmacht? Dann geht es in die Grätzl - die Stadtteile, wo die Wiener wohnen und essen, wo Lebensgefühle aufkommen, vergleichbar mit den Berliner Kiezen oder den Veedeln in Köln. Ein Rundgang in fünf Kapiteln.
1. Auf dem Meidlinger Markt: Kulinarik im Vorbeigehen Auf dem Meidlinger Markt im 12. Wiener Gemeindebezirk, eine halbe Stunde Fußmarsch von Schloss Schönbrunn entfernt, konzentriert sich der Gast am besten auf das, was Wiener lieben: essen.
Eine Food-Safari - so die Bezeichnung einer geführten Tour - durch den Straßenmarkt führt zu Max Kern. Der Händler mit langen blonden Haaren tischt unter freiem Himmel eine Brettl-Jause auf, eine Brotzeit mit Käse, und versichert: «Unsere Spezialitäten stammen von kleinen österreichischen Produzenten mit hohem Anspruch.»
Bei einem Glas Weißwein - einem typischen Gemischten Satz aus Wien - sitzt der Gast mitten im Marktgeschehen. Einheimische verkaufen ihren Trödel, Bauern ihr Gemüse. Man plaudert, man kennt sich. Über trendige Garderobe muss sich im ehemaligen Arbeiterviertel niemand Gedanken machen. Nicht so wichtig.
«Der echte Wiener liebt seine Mehlspeisen, genauso wie sein Grätzl», sagt Mark Ruiz-Hellin. In seiner Mini-Konditorei Hüftgold bietet der Quereinsteiger aus Hannover den typisch Wiener Punschkrapfen aus Rumteig mit viel Zucker und einer rosa Glasur an. Es duftet aus der Backstube.
2. Im Servitenviertel: Berühmte Freitreppe und grüne Oase Durch die Straßen des Servitenviertels im 9. Bezirk weht ein Hauch von Paris. Viel Französisch ist zu hören. Da geht es vorbei am Lycée Français, einer französischen Buchhandlung bis zum Bistro «La Mercerie». Vor der Kulisse alter Apothekerschränke genießen junge Leute frisch gebackene Croissants und Eclairs, auch als Kaffestangen bekannt.
Am Ende einer Gasse versteckt sich die vermutlich berühmteste Freitreppe der Weltliteratur: die Strudelhofstiege. Wie in Heimito von Doderers gleichnamigen Roman treffen sich auf der imposanten Jugendstiltreppe Menschen auch zum Rendezvous.
Verliebte und andere Besucher lockt es von dort oft in den nahegelegenen Park des Gartenpalais Liechtenstein. Die grüne Oase mit blumengeschmückten Beeten, plätscherndem Springbrunnen und hohen Bäumen schließt sich an das fürstliche Barockgebäude aus der österreichischen Großmachtzeit an.
Das Palais, in dem ein Teil der privaten Kunstsammlung des Fürsten von und zu Liechtenstein untergebracht ist, kann jedoch nur im Rahmen von Führungen und Veranstaltungen betreten werden.
Max Kern am Meidlinger Markt: Der Händler Haaren tischt unter freiem Himmel eine Brettl-Jause auf. Daniela David/dpa-tmn
Auf dem Meidlinger Markt im 12. Wiener Gemeindebezirk, eine halbe Stunde Fußmarsch von Schloss Schönbrunn entfernt, konzentriert sich der Gast am besten auf das, was Wiener lieben: Essen. Daniela David/dpa-tmn
Grüne Oase: Verliebte und andere Besucher lockt es in den Park des Gartenpalais Liechtenstein. Daniela David/dpa-tmn
Im Bistro «La Mercerie» im Servitenviertel: Vor der Kulisse alter Apothekerschränke genießt man Croissants und Eclairs. Daniela David/dpa-tmn
Die vermutlich berühmteste Freitreppe der Weltliteratur: die Strudelhofstiege im Servitenviertel. Daniela David/dpa-tmn
Das Pratermuseum in einem Neubau in der Leopoldstadt ist noch recht unbekannt. Daniela David/dpa-tmn
Pratermuseum: Hier präsentieren sich Kuriositäten der mehr als 250-jährigen Geschichte des Lunaparks. Daniela David/dpa-tmn
Hoch aufragendes Symbol des Vergnügungsparks: Riesenrad im Praterviertel. Daniela David/dpa-tmn
Sehenswertes Gebäude im Viertel Zwei: der Bibliotheksbau der Stararchitektin Zaha Hadid. Daniela David/dpa-tmn
Generationen-Café «Vollpension»: Hier kellnern Senioren, die keine Lust auf Einsamkeit haben. Daniela David/dpa-tmn
«Ein cooles Grätzl mit mörderischer Energie», sagt Guide Sebastian Knöbl über das kreative und lebendige Freihausviertel im 4. Bezirk. Daniela David/dpa-tmn
«Die Rezepte stammen von meiner Familie», sagt Stefanie Herkner. In der Küche ihres Beisls gibt sie Knödelseminare. Daniela David/dpa-tmn
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3. Im Praterviertel: Kuriositäten und Donau-Auen Die begrünte Praterstraße mit ihrem neuen breiten Streifen für Fahrradfahrer lenkt Touristen im 2. Gemeindebezirk zum weltbekannten Vergnügungspark, dem Wiener Prater, benannt nach der gleichnamigen städtischen Auenlandschaft der Donau.
«Unser Riesenrad von 1897 wird gerne für Heiratsanträge genutzt, die Braut kann da nicht wegrennen», sagt Stadtführerin Ilse Heigerth augenzwinkernd. «Das neue Pratermuseum kennt dagegen noch kaum jemand.»
In dem Neubau in der Leopoldstadt präsentieren sich Kuriositäten der mehr als 250-jährigen Geschichte des Lunaparks: vom Heiratsvermittlungsapparat über ausgediente Schießbudenfiguren bis zum Watschenmann, der typischen Prater-Figur, die an Buden aufgestellt wurde.
Im Alltag aber lässt der echte Wiener den Wurstelprater, wie der Park offiziell heißt, links liegen und flaniert durch den Grünen Prater, einer weitläufigen Anlage mit Wiesen und Auen. Die lange Hauptallee aus Kastanien führt schnurgerade zum barocken Lusthaus, heute ein Lokal. Wer mag, kann sich im Fiaker dorthin kutschieren lassen - etwas, was echte Wiener aber eher seltener machen dürften.
4. Im Viertel Zwei: Wiens modernstes Grätzl Welch architektonische Gegenwelt gleich nebenan: das Viertel Zwei, ebenfalls in der Leopoldstadt gelegen. Urban, innovativ und autofrei.
Der Wind pfeift über die versiegelten Flächen von Wiens modernstem Grätzl. Ungewöhnliche Fotomotive bieten die teils futuristischen Gebäude internationaler Architekten, allen voran der Bibliotheksbau der Stararchitektin Zaha Hadid samt herausragendem Dach.
Wie in einem utopischen Film bewegen sich Studenten über den Campus der Wirtschaftsuniversität: Fassaden aus spiegelndem Glas und rostbraunem Cortenstahl bilden eine Kulisse wie aus der Zukunft.
Unbeeindruckt von all dem trainiert ein einsamer Sulky-Fahrer sein Pferd auf der benachbarten historischen Trabrennbahn Krieau. Mit ihren denkmalgeschützten Tribünen wirkt sie inmitten der neuen Architektur wie ein Anachronismus.
5. Im Freihausviertel: Kellnernde Senioren und Knödelseminar «Ein cooles Grätzl mit mörderischer Energie», urteilt Sebastian Knöbl von Rebel-Tours über das kreative und lebendige Freihausviertel im 4. Bezirk. Der junge Guide zeigt seinen Gästen das «Wien der Wiener», wie etwa das Generationen-Café «Vollpension». Kellnernde Senioren, die keine Lust auf Einsamkeit haben, kredenzen den Gästen in Wohnzimmeratmosphäre hausgemachte Kuchen von Oma.
Wie viel Freude es macht, Wiener Spezialitäten selbst zu kochen, lernt man bei Stefanie Herkner im Knödelseminar. In der Küche ihres Beisls «Zur Herknerin» wird gemeinsam gerührt und geknetet. Schnell fertig sind die Topfenknödel. «Die Rezepte stammen von meiner Familie», sagt die Köchin und Kochbuchautorin mit einer Brise Wiener Schmäh.
Links, Tipps, Praktisches: Reiseziel: Die Hauptstadt Wien liegt im Osten Österreichs.
Beste Reisezeit: Wien kann ganzjährig besucht werden. Um die Stadtviertel zu erkunden, eignen sich vor allem die wärmeren Jahreszeiten, wenn das Leben sich nach draußen verlagert.
Anreise: Wien ist dank internationaler Zug- und Flugverbindungen gut an deutsche Städten angebunden. Für die Nutzung des gut ausgebauten öffentlichen Verkehrsnetzes empfiehlt sich die Vienna City Card .
Museum: Der Eintritt zum Pratermuseum kostet 8 Euro, ermäßigt 6 Euro; das kürzlich renovierte Wien-Museum erzählt in seiner Dauerausstellung die Stadtgeschichte. Der Eintritt ist kostenlos.
Aktivitäten: Bezirksführungen sind buchbar über den Verein der geprüften Wiener Fremdenführer . Über geführte Touren zu anderen Themen wie Kulinarik oder Jugendstil informiert Wien-Tourismus. Verschiedene Lokale bieten Koch- und Backkurse an.
Weitere Auskünfte: Wien-Tourismus
Social Media: tiktok.com/@vienna.info ; instagram.com/vienna
Copyright 2024, dpa (www.dpa.de). Alle Rechte vorbehalten
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