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Traumstrände bieten die Whitsundays - zum Beispiel am Hill Inlet
Foto: Tourism and Events Queensland Australien-Reise Traumstrände Whitsunday Islands Die Whitsunday Islands sind berühmt, aber nur wenige kennen die ersten Bewohner der australischen Postkarteninseln. Der Ngaro Sea Trail führt Wanderer und Kajaker zu den Höhlenmalereien und Steinbrüchen der Ngaro. Und zu fantastischen Aussichtspunkten.
Stünden nicht ein Zaun und Schilder vor der Höhle, könnte man die roten Zeichnungen an der Felswand für Graffiti mäßig begabter Jugendlicher halten. Aber sie sind uralte Kulturschätze.
Vor wahrscheinlich 2000 Jahren kauerte ein Aborigine vom Volk der Ngaro in der Höhle, er tauchte seine Finger in das Ockerpulver und zog Striche über den Fels. Die Ngaro mussten die Whitsunday Islands vor Jahrhunderten verlassen. Ein neuer Weg folgt nun ihren Spuren.
Die Whitsundays sind ein Pflichtstopp auf jeder Tour entlang der Ostküste Australiens. Eine Flotte von Segelbooten schippert die Rucksackreisenden und andere Urlauber für ein paar Tage durch die Inseln. Der Startpunkt Airlie Beach ist längst ein lärmender Partyort mit zweifelhaftem Ruf. Von den ersten Bewohnern des Archipels hat allerdings wohl noch kaum ein Tourist gehört.
Der Ngaro Sea Trail soll das ändern. »Der Weg führt auf die Gipfel der Inseln und zu wichtigen kulturellen und historischen Stätten«, sagt Damien Head, der Direktor der Nationalparks in der Great Barrier Reef Region. Er ist kein durchgehender Fernwanderweg, sondern ein Netzwerk aus Kajakrouten und Wanderwegen.
Einer der kürzesten, aber interessantesten Wege beginnt am Nara Inlet, einer tief eingeschnittenen Bucht auf Hook Island. Durch trockenen Busch führt er vom Ufer bergauf bis zu der Höhle mit den Felsmalereien. Am Wegesrand erklären Stelen die Lebensweise und die Geschichte des außergewöhnlichen Aborigine-Volks, das einst in Kanus aus Baumrinde von Insel zu Insel paddelte.
Schon vor mindestens 9000 Jahren kamen die Ngaro auf die Inseln, die Gipfel einer versunkenen Gebirgskette sind. Zunächst waren sie nur gelegentlich hier, um Nahrung zu suchen. Als sie neue Techniken erlernt hatten und der Meeresspiegel weiter stieg, blieben sie. Sie sammelten Yams und Burdekin-Pflaumen, Mangrovenkrabben und Muscheln. Sie fischten mit Netzen und Angelhaken aus Schildkrötenpanzer.
Im Nara Inlet wurden damals viele Krieger der Ngaro zusammengetrieben und getötet. Die Überlebenden wurden in Missionsstationen deportiert. Viele mussten später als Taucher auf Perlfarmen in der Torres Strait arbeiten. Es war das Ende eines blutigen Konflikts zwischen den Ureinwohnern und den Eroberern aus Europa.
Er begann am 3. Juni 1770. An diesem Tag ließ James Cook vor den Inseln Anker werfen. Es war der Pfingstsonntag, auf Englisch: Whitsunday. Cook sagte später, die Ngaro seien die größten Aborigines, die er je gesehen habe. Auf jeden Fall gehörten sie zu den widerspenstigsten. Immer wieder kletterten sie nachts auf ankernde Schiffe, um sie zu sabotieren oder gleich die Mannschaft zu massakrieren. Die Rache der Europäer war gnadenlos.
Viele Besucher, die heute von den Segelbooten in der Nachbarbucht abgesetzt werden und zum Aussichtspunkt über den Hill Inlet spazieren, wissen nicht, dass sie gerade auf dem Ngaro Sea Trail unterwegs sind. »Die meisten, die den Weg bewusst machen, sind Kajak-Fahrer«, sagt Damien Head.
Das hat auch Vorteile. Als Wanderer hat man oft eine Insel für sich allein. Oder zumindest fast. An diesem Tag ist ein Mountainbiker in das Wassertaxi nach South Molle Island eingestiegen. Von Shute Harbour braucht das Stahlboot nur zehn Minuten, dann senkt sich die Landungsklappe auf den Strand. Auf der Insel verläuft das längste Teilstück des Ngaro Sea Trail an Land. Und das einzige, auf dem Radler fahren dürfen.
Ein Arm des Wegs führt durch fast tropischen Wald zu einem Fels, der über dem Abhang balanciert, und zum Lamond Hill. Der Lamond Hill ist benannt nach Henry Lamond, der bis zum Jahr 1927 seine Schafe auf South Molle grasen ließ. Dann tauschte er die Insel gegen die Milchfarm von Ernie Bauer, der das Resort aufbaute. Eine Metallplatte auf dem Hügel erinnert an Lamonds Frau Eileen und ihren Sohn Hal. «Sie liebten beide diese Insel», ist darauf eingraviert zu lesen. Man kann sie gut verstehen.
Ngaro Sea Trail
Anreise: Mehrere Airlines fliegen aus Deutschland nach Brisbane. Von dort gibt es Inlandsflüge nach Proserpine (Whitsunday Coast Airport), das nahe bei Airlie Beach liegt. Alternativ kann man auch nach Hamilton Island fliegen. Zwischen den Inseln pendeln mehrmals täglich Fähren. Von Shute Harbour, einem Vorort von Airlie Beach, fahren Wassertaxis nach South Molle Island. Passagiere müssen das Taxi vorher bestellen und vereinbaren, wann und wo sie wieder abgeholt werden möchten.
Reisezeit: Die beste Zeit zum Wandern ist der australische Winter, also die Monate April und September. Dann liegen die Temperaturen tagsüber zwischen 21 und 26 Grad. Im Sommer kann es sehr heiß werden, außerdem fegen dann regelmäßig Zyklone über die Inseln. Die Regenzeit dauert von Januar bis April. Zum Kajaken bietet sich vor allem der September an, wenn es selten windig ist.
Unterkunft: In Airlie Beach gibt es alles vom Backpacker-Hostel bis zum Fünf-Sterne-Hotel. Die Ferienwohnungen und Hotels auf den Inseln sind grundsätzlich teurer. Auf vielen Inseln gibt es aber auch Campingplätze. Einige bieten Tische, Toiletten und Wasser, andere nur eine abgeholzte Fläche. Wer zelten will, braucht eine Genehmigung. Diese kann man im Besucherzentrum, in Nationalparkbüros oder online beantragen.
Informationen: Tourism and Events Queensland, c/o Global Spot, Oberbrunnerstraße 4, 81475 München, Tel.: 089/759 69 88 69
Whitsunday Visitor Information Centre, Bruce Highway, Proserpine QLD 4800, Tel.: 0061/7 49 45 37 11, E-Mail:
(09.12.2015, dpa)
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