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Die Einkaufsstraße in Rhodos-Stadt ist ein extrem touristischer Ort – oft mit austauschbaren Billigsouvenirs. Doch es gibt auch noch viele versteckte Ecken
Foto: Tobias Schormann Griechenland Künstler zeigen Urlaubern ihre Heimatinsel Rhodos Auf Rhodos zeigen junge griechische Künstler und Designer, wie sehr sie ihre Heimat inspiriert. Und dass die beliebte Urlaubsinsel für Touristen mehr zu bieten hat als nur Sonne und Strand. Noch muss man sich zu Pantelis Kampouropoulos durchfragen, will man den jungen Architekten in Rhodos-Stadt besuchen. Sein Studio liegt im Keller eines Hotels in Hafennähe. Doch seit er und sein Partner vor zwei Jahren den Entwurf für ihre »Casa brutale« online stellten, geht es bergauf.
Das Design ist spektakulär: ein Haus, direkt in eine steile Klippe gehauen, die Wände aus Glas, ein Swimmingpool als Dach. Das Bild ging um die Welt - und half den zwei Kreativen aus der Krise. Ein libanesischer Bauunternehmer sah die Bilder und beauftragte das Architektenduo, den Entwurf als Privathaus für ihn zu bauen.
Kreativ aus der Krise: Das ist das Motto vieler junger Menschen in Griechenland – und oft auch für Touristen interessant. Die Kreativen sitzen längst wieder im Studio. Und auf der beliebten Urlauberinsel Rhodos, wo die Menschen größtenteils vom Tourismus leben und die Hotels noch immer gut gebucht werden, spürt man die Krise nicht so stark wie auf dem Festland.
Kampouropoulos trifft seine Kollegen am liebsten am »hippsten Ort der Insel«, wie er sagt: In der Strandbar »Ronda« räkeln sich junge, stylishe Griechen und Urlauber auf Matratzen oder an Holztischen unter geflochtenen Korblampen. Nur wenige hundert Meter von der historischen Altstadt von Rhodos-Stadt entfernt, ist der Elli Beach für die Einheimischen nach der Arbeit schnell zu erreichen. Eine gute Alternative für Touristen, die den Bettenburgen entkommen wollen.
Auch Theodora Kounakis, 32, trifft man in der Ronda-Bar, sofern sie nicht gerade im familieneigenen Juwelierladen steht. Das edle Geschäft, das in einer sehr touristischen Gasse der Altstadt liegt, scheint auf den ersten Blick nicht ins Bild zu passen: Links werden knallbunte Hüte mit »Rhodes«-Schriftzug feilgeboten, rechts gefälschte T-Shirts. Kounakis verkauft ihre eigene Schmucklinie – ein beliebtes Souvenir.
»Alle meine Entwürfe sind inspiriert von den Sehenswürdigkeiten hier auf Rhodos«, sagt sie. Einer der goldenen Anhänger ist eine Weiterentwicklung eines Designs ihres Großvaters, dem ersten Juwelier überhaupt auf Rhodos. Kounakis führt das Geschäft nun in der dritten Generation, obwohl sie die Insel zunächst verließ, um in London Modedesign zu studieren. Doch sie kehrte zurück.
Kounakis zeigt Besuchern gerne die andere, unbekannte Seite der Altstadt: Denn obwohl die mittelalterlichen Gebäude beeindruckend zahlreich und gut erhalten sind, laufen die meisten Touristen nur die Sokratesstraße hinunter. Kounakis geht deshalb am liebsten dorthin, wo tatsächlich noch Menschen in den Welterbe-Mauern leben. Im Dunkel der Nacht klettert sie auf einen eigentlich gesperrten Teil der vier Kilometer langen Festungsmauer. Vom Mandraki-Hafen weht ein kühler Wind hinüber. Die Frau blickt über die Festungsruinen. »Hier habe ich meine besten Ideen«, sagt sie zufrieden.
Auch Evi Savvaidi sieht Rhodos als die größte Inspiration für ihre Kunst. Sie kann verstehen, warum Touristen so gerne auf die Insel kommen. »Nirgendwo sind die Farben so intensiv wie hier.« Der Blick aus ihrem Studio – gleichzeitig eine öffentliche Galerie – ist ziemlich einzigartig: Türkis schimmert das Meer, nur eine Straße trennt die Räume vom Ixia-Strand, einem Lieblingsort der Wind- und Kitesurfer. Kein Wunder, dass Savvaidi blieb – obwohl sie mit ihren Skulpturen international berühmt geworden ist.
Ihre Kunst ist so subtil wie sie selbst: An den weißen Wänden des Studios hängen Flaggen von Ländern. Nur wer nah herantritt, sieht, dass die jeweilige Flagge kein Gemälde ist, sondern in Wahrheit ein Mosaik aus winzigen Plastiksoldaten. »Make art, not war«, heißt diese Serie. Ein starkes Statement, das gut zu der besonderen Aufbruchstimmung der Insel passt.
Die Kreativen: Die Galerie von Evi Savvaidi kann jeder besuchen: 20 Leoforos Iraklidon, Ixia, ebenso wie die Schmuckdesignerin Theodora Kounakis: 26-28 Vizantiou, Rhodos-Stadt.
Kreative Souvenirs bieten außerdem die Designer von »When in Greece«, 153 Sokratous, Rhodos-Stadt.
Informationen: Marketing Greece, Voukourestioustraße 20, 10671 Athen, Tel. 0030/210/364 90 84, E-Mail: .
(30.03.2017, dpa)
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