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Mirissa Beach auf Sri Lanka: Hier hat sich seit 20 Jahren kaum etwas verändert.
Foto: Johann Jilka Mirissa - Sri Lanka Ein Palmentraum, in dem die Zeit still zu stehen scheint
Die Südwestküste Sir Lankas wäre heute wohl gar nicht wiederzuerkennen, wenn der erst vor zwei Jahren beendete Bürgerkrieg den Tourismus nicht gebremst hätte. Es gibt sogar Orte, da hat sich in den letzten Jahrzehnten kaum etwas geändert. Mirissa gehört dazu.
Als die ersten Backpacker in den 70ern und Anfang der 80er Jahre in das kleine Dorf an der Südspitze Sri Lankas kamen, wohnten sie bei den Fischern, aßen höllisch scharfe, undefinierbare Gerichte, rauchten selbstgerollte Zigarren aus getrockneten Tabakblättern und tranken billigen Arrak-Schnaps. Zucker war knapp und der berühmte Tee schmeckte bitter. 30 Jahre später ist alles anders. Die Curries sind milder und schmecken auch den Touristen, es gibt frischen Fisch und kühles Bier. Trotzdem scheint in Mirissa die Zeit langsamer vergangen zu sein. Die Atmosphäre am wunderschönen, ca. 500 Meter langen Strand und den angrenzenden Palmenhainen ist gelassen und erinnert stark daran, wie es in Thailand vor 10 Jahren mal gewesen ist. Ein Platz abseits vom großen Geschäft und weit davon entfernt, ein überlaufener, lauter Touristenspot zu sein. Das Publikum ist eine bunte Mischung im Alter zwischen 20 und 60 – alles Leute, die sich ihre Routen und Ziele noch selbst aussuchen. Es gibt gute Unterkünfte jeder Preislage, nette Restaurants und ein paar witzige Bars. Wer Lust hat, macht lange Spaziergänge an den einsamen Nachbarstränden, probiert mit einem geliehenen Brett das Wellenreiten, schlendert ins Dorf zum Kandavahari- Tempel oder macht eine Tagestour in die reizvolle koloniale Altstadt von Galle. Mirissa ist einer jener Plätze, an dem viele Leute länger als geplant hängenbleiben. Tipp für Romantiker oder Nachdenker oder Menschen, die sich gerade kennenlernen: zum Sonnenuntergang mit einem Drink über den Steg zur vorgelagerten kleinen Insel spazieren.
{tab=Die passende Unterkunft finden|green}
Die meisten Unterkünfte liegen im Palmenhain direkt hinter dem Strand.
Geräumige Zimmer hat das »Central Beach Inn«, besonders empfehlenswert sind die im 1. Stock mit Liegestühlen auf dem Balkon und einem herrlichen Blick durch die Palmenwedel auf den Strand (DZ Fan € 12, Tel. 0094-41-2251699, www.centralbeachinn.com ). Ähnlich nett ist das »Mirissa Beach Inn« mit Zimmern für € 15 und Bungalows für € 13 (Tel. 0094-41-2250410). Erstes Haus am Strand ist der »Paradise Beach Club« mit geschmackvoll eingerichteten, klimatisierten Zimmern (EZ/DZ US$ 70/80inkl. HP), Bungalows mit Fan (US$ 38/50 inkl. HP) und Pool im schattigen Palmengarten (Tel. 0094-41-2250380, http://paradisemirissa.com ). Hier kann man sich auch mal ein Glas Wein oder einen Cocktail gönnen (ab US$ 4). Zu den Unterkünften gehört i. d. R. ein Restaurant. Zu empfehlen sind die Fischgerichte (gegrillter Fisch € 3, gebratene Garnelen € 4), Bier kostet € 1 – 2.
{tab=So kommen Sie hin|green} Mirissa ist leicht zu erreichen. Wer Zeit hat, zuckelt mit dem Zug von Colombo nach Galle (4 Std.). Die Stecke führt meist am Meer entlang und bietet herrliche Ausblicke. Wenn möglich, Platz reservieren (€ 1,50). Von Galle geht’s mit dem Bus in einer Stunde nach Weligama (30 Cent), von dort mit Tuk Tuk oder Taxi nach Mirissa (€ 2). Wer es eilig hat, fährt Taxi (ab Colombo Airport € 60).
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