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Die Stelzenbungalows des »Koh Chang Resorts« sind einfach, haben aber eine Top-Lage
Reisebericht Thailand Koh Chang Ranong - Wie Koh Samui in den Achtzigern Die kleine Insel in der Andamanensee ist ein Ziel für Naturliebhaber und Thailandkenner. Wer Luxus, Poolanlagen und Boutiquen braucht,wäre hier völlig falsch. »Das kleine karierte grüne Schulheft mit der Nummer 9 ist deins« teilt mir Ploy, die Chefin meines Resorts am Long Beach, beim Einchecken mit. Mein Blick scheint fragend zu sein. Ploy erklärt, sie schreibe jeden Tag das Datum auf eine Seite und ich solle dann mit dem Kugelschreiber, den sie mir überreicht, eintragen, was ich tagsüber konsumiere: Bier aus der Eisbox und das, was ich zu essen ordere. Abgerechnet wird am Abreisetag, Strom gibt's von 18 bis 21 Uhr - und wenn ich länger als fünf Nächte bleibe, kostet mein Bungalow 20 Meter vom Strand entfernt nur 300 statt der normalen 400 Baht - das sind nicht einmal acht Euro. Wenn ich etwas brauche, soll ich Bescheid sagen, sie kümmert sich dann darum. Wow, ich war schon oft in Thailand. Aber so habe ich das zuletzt vor 30 Jahren auf Koh Phangan gehört. Auf Koh Chang - nicht zu verwechseln mit dem grosen Koh Chang an Thailands Ostküste - scheint die Zeit stehengeblieben zu sein. Ploy hat noch etwas vergessen: Sie hofft für mich, dass ich genügend Bargeld dabei habe, weil es keinen Geldautomaten auf der Insel gibt, ansonsten müsste ich halt nochmal zurück nach Ranong. »Keine Sorge, Ploy, ich bin altmodisch«, antworte ich. »Sieht man«, sagt sie. Charmant. Vielen Dank. Alles klar. Angekommen auf Koh Chang Noi.
»Ein Tipp fur alle, die der guten alten Zeit immer hinterhertrauern« Das Inselchen misst an der längsten Ausdehnung neun Kilometer und an der breitesten Stelle vier. Die Insel gehört zum Mu-Ko-Nationalpark und liegt nur fünf Kilometer vor dem Festland bei Ranong in der Andamanensee.
Stimmt, die Strände sind verglichen mit vielen anderen Thai-Beaches weniger attraktiv, doch schön sind sie allemal. Die braun-schwarze Maserung der Strände erinnert bei Ebbe manchmal an ein Zebrafell. Für Aussteiger-Typen, denen die touristische Entwicklung auf anderen thailändischen Inseln viel zu schnell vorangeschritten ist, die eher Lagerfeueratmosphäre als Goa-Partys suchen, ist es ein idealer Platz - einer der letzten. In der Hauptsaison zwischen Dezember und Ende Februar kommen viele nicht mehr ganz junge, oft Deutsch sprechende Herrschaften - zum Nichtstun, Lesen und um mit anderen Travellern die Welt verändernde Gespräche zu führen. Von jungen Travellern wird die Insel gerade erst entdeckt. Hauptstrand ist der rund drei Kilometer lange Ao Yai (Long Beach) an der Westküste.
Für Abwechslung sorgen Strand- und Inselwanderungen, etwa vom Nordende des Long Beach über einen kleinen Steg durch die Mangroven gen Süden zur Ao Ta Daeng, einem Mini- Strand mit ein paar Unterkünften. Wer genug Power hat, wandert den Trail zur Ranger Station nach Süden weiter.
Einfacher ist es, vom Nordende des Long Beach Richtung Norden über einen kleinen Hügel zu den drei Ministränden des Ao Ko Kiang im Nordwesten zu laufen. Startpunkt ist beim »Long Beach Bungalows«. Wer wissen möchte, wo er gelandet ist, schaut bei den Moken vorbei, einem Volk von Seenomaden, die in einem kleinen Stelzendorf im Norden der Insel leben. Nicht viele Fremde verirren sich hierher, die Menschen sind freundlich, aber schüchtern, Besucher sollten sich respektvoll verhalten. Lohnend ist auf dem Rückweg ein Abstecher zum in der Inselmitte liegenden Süßwassersee. Eine Badehose sollte man dabeihaben, denn es winkt ein erfrischendes Bad im glasklaren Wasser!
»Um halb sieben versammeln sich die Traveller am Strand zum Sonnenuntergang« Auf dem Rückweg zum Long Beach kommt man durchs Inseldorf mit Restaurant und Shop und an einem Buddha-Tempel vorbei. Unterwegs kann es passieren, dass ein Waran den Weg kreuzt oder ein Nashornvögel den Eindringling mit einem Schnaufen empfängt, das einer kleinen Dampflokomotive nicht unähnlich ist. Zwar mussten große Teile des Urwaldes Kautschuk, Ölpalmen- oder Cashewplantagen weichen, doch eine Vorstellung, wie Koh Chang früher einmal ausgesehen hat, bekommt man allemal. Gegen halb sieben, wenn die Sonne rotglühend hinter den burmesischen Inseln in der Andamanensee versinkt, versammelt sich die Gästeschar bei einem Bier am Strand, einige verfolgen das tägliche Spektakel schwimmend vom Meer aus. Unvergesslich.
Auf dem Rückweg zum Long Beach kommt man durchs Inseldorf mit Restaurant und Shop und an einem Buddha-Tempel vorbei. Unterwegs kann es passieren, dass ein Waran den Weg kreuzt oder ein Nashornvögel den Eindringling mit einem Schnaufen empfängt, das einer kleinen Dampflokomotive nicht unähnlich ist. Zwar mussten große Teile des Urwaldes Kautschuk, Ölpalmen- oder Cashewplantagen weichen, doch eine Vorstellung, wie Koh Chang früher einmal ausgesehen hat, bekommt man allemal. Gegen halb sieben, wenn die Sonne rotglühend hinter den burmesischen Inseln in der Andamanensee versinkt, versammelt sich die Gästeschar bei einem Bier am Strand, einige verfolgen das tägliche Spektakel schwimmend vom Meer aus. Unvergesslich.
Autor: Johann Jilka (4/2018)
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